After being blindsided by an island full of trashy, drunk partygoers (and on a completely separate note, meeting now-good-friend Peach) in Koh Phi Phi, and getting sick and overloaded in Phuket, I had to get away from the crowds – so I set off for the secluded, floating fishing village of Ko Panyi.
Panyi is a village unlike any other I’ve seen – situated in the waters of the Andaman Sea, on Thailand’s Southern Coast, the entire village is built on stilts sitting above the water. It’s loosely connected to an adjacent rock karst sticking out of the water, but essentially, the entire village is above the water.
I took a bus from Phuket over to the dock where the local boat departs for Ko Panyi. Most tourists going to Panyi opt for the more convenient, but completely tourist-oriented and more expensive day tour direct from Phuket. However, in addition to being tourist traps, those tours are only one day long. I wanted to go to Panyi for an overnight – something that most people don’t do, and that the village is barely setup to accommodate.
After a somewhat confusing bus ride out of Phuket, and a bit of a hike and hitchhike, I finally made my way to the correct dock, and caught the locals boat. I was the only foreigner on the boat, and tried to smooth things over by helping load the boat up with groceries and construction equipment.
Finally on Panyi, the dock floats, so it can track along with the considerable tides in the area. After helping unload the boat, I was on my own to wander around and try to find one of the 3 or 4 rumoured guest rooms available in the village.
And finally, I found above a restaurant the rumored rooms. They were sparse, but for USD$3/night, it was just perfect. The owners of the restaurant were incredibly nice, and I spent a good amount of time sitting with them on the floor watching thai boxing matches on TV.
The village is beautiful, with all of the houses up on stilts. Being constantly surrounded by water, and hearing it lapping at the structures at all hours imparts a profound peace and tranquility on the place. People are milling around, kids are playing, and the water is slowly lulling everyone into a more peaceful state. Pretty fantastic. Of note, the tides are huge. At low tide, a significant portion of the ground under the village is exposed, and it’s easy to see how high the houses are stilted up. However at high tide, the water comes right up to edge of the walkways and houses. In fact, the water breaches the walkway in some spots.
In addition to being a fishing village, Ko Panyi is also know, unexpectedly, for it’s excellent football team. Despite their lack of land, the football team has miraculously made the most out of it, and built themselves into a world-class team. They’re so good, that there was even a short film made about them:
I had the opportunity to watch the Panyee FC practice on their new pitch, which was a very special opportunity. The team practices in the evening after the tourists have left, and they really are very good! In addition to the main team, there are also lots of teams of younger kids, aspiring to be like the older players.
Tonsai was a paradise for me, and I was very sad to leave. However, in the spirit of continuous travel and exploration, I decide to move on, and head north through the Thai islands to the Thai party central island of Koh Phi Phi Don. PP (as the locals write it) lies in the Andaman Sea, just north of Tonsai, and south of Phuket. It’s fairly central location and beautiful setting make it a very popular spot for vacationers and partiers. Although the reported beach party vibe wasn’t ultimately what I was after, I figured PP was worth at least stopping in to see. Additionally, it gave me solid access to a few of more beautiful SCUBA diving spots in the Andaman.
Transfer from Tonsai to Phi Phi was via a mix of traditional Thai Longtail boats and higher speed ferries. To start out the day of travel in adventurous Tonsai fashion, we hoised out bags above our heads, and waded out into the water during high tide to where the boats were parked – on the edge of the deep water. I loved that the boat drivers simply assumed that everybody was wearing flip flops and was fully prepared to wade out into the shallow tidal area – we certainly all were, and everyone loved it.
Upon arrival in Koh Phi Phi Don, the vibe changed completely. Gone was the laid back climber vibe of Tonsai. Now, it was all tourism and partying, all the time. The second I got off the ferry, I was immediately hit by a barage of touts from nearby guesthouses and bars, offering me cheap rooms, free drinks, “special” massages, and tour packages. They came out to the very edge of the dock, and the line of touts extended down the pier and into the maze of shops covering the island. Certainly the island is beautiful, but was immediately way too overrun with the party-backpacker vibe for my tastes.
Ko Phi Phi Don is now squarely on the tourist map, and tourists from all over the world (especially Europe, Japan, and the wealthier Southeast Asian countries i.e. Chinese, Singapore and Malaysia) flock to the island. Accessible from Phuket and mainland Krabi province, all tourists must arrive by Ferry. (The trip from Phuket takes around 90 minutes.) This has essentially turned the island into a rush of day trippers who overpopulate the island from 11AM-3PM. The island still holds much charm that can be enjoyed in the hours that the flocks from Phuket are not there.
So, my first order of business, after fining a low key guesthouse at the back of a restaurant, was to arrange to get off the island and go SCUBA Diving. I’ve been a SCUBA Diver for a long time – since I got my Jr. Open Water certification when I was 12 or 13 at summercamp in Maine. Back then, my diving was limited to frigid dives in a dirty, shallow lake using age old gear. However, since then, I’ve been fortunate to do some of the better dives in the world, in locations such as the Blue Hole Belize, Sea of Cortez Mexico, Bora Bora French Polynesia, British Virgin Islands, and Dutch West Indies. So, in the past few years of diving, I’ve tried to refine my taste a little bit, and focus my time and energy on doing dives that are really interesting to me. Sure, reef dives to see fish and coral are nice, but I’ve seen a ton of that. Nowadays I prefer more technical dives, such as wrecks. Luckily, closeby the PP was one of the more famous wrecks in the area – the King Cruiser Shipwreck. I arranged a day of diving with Island Divers, who were great. My guide from Island Divers was PADI Instructor Adam Jordan, instructor #611002. King Cruiser wreck was great, and the sealife living in the wreck was astounding. Although I did the dive mainly to see the wreck, I’ve gotta say that the sealife on this dive, as well as the Shark Point Dive I did next, was some of the best I’ve seen in the world.
The King Cruiser wreck is the wreck of the car ferry of the same name that sank off the West Coast of Southern Thailand on 4 May 1997.
The ferry was operating between Phuket and the Phi Phi Islands in southern Thailand when she hit a submerged collection of rocky pinnacles at Anemone Reef, 10 miles off Phi Phi Island. The impact tore a large hole in the hull, and the vessel sank within two and a half hours.[1]
All 561 passengers – including both Thai locals and foreign tourists – were rescued. They were picked up by the two police patrol boats and four or five fishing boats which had raced to the rescue in response to an emergency call. One elderly woman sustained a broken back and several others suffered shock.
After a day of Diving, I briefly surveyed the party scene with friend Peach. Of note, popular on the Thai party scene is the concept of the “bucket”. For as little as 200 Baht, you can get from a street vendor a small plastic bucket, a flash of cheap alcohol, and some mixers. It’s cheap, potent, and the kids who come to the islands to party seem to love it. Not really my style, but an interesting phenomenon nonetheless.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8788382133/in/set-72157633591638139
For my final day in PP, I did a hike from one end of the island to the other. Once I had left the main tourist center of the island, the island was much much more beautiful and manageable. I started my day long hike going up to the viewpoint, and then headed north along the ridge. Hiking across the middle of the island felt very much like an episode of LOST – I continuously encountered small villages in the mountains, mysterious pathways, strange electrical lines running overhead, and a bunch of other strange structures all over the forrest. Finishing my hike, I stopped into the incredibly large and complete Outrigger Resort, which is on its own secluded beach on the northern section. This place felt more my style, versus the dirty partygoer accommodations.
As soon as I finished up my brief intro to Thailand in Koh Lanta, I immediately hopped on a boat and sped over to the climbers mecca of Thailand, Railay/Tonsai Beach. The Railay beach area is made of three different bays, with the beach in each bay having a unique character. West Railay is the ritzy beach, with lush resorts and infinity pools. East Railay is the mid-range beach, with the main boat dock and a handfull of restaurants. And Tonsai is the undeveloped, dirty, raw and rambunctious climbers beach – filled with backpackers on a mission to relax at the low key beach bars at night, and rock climb the surrounding soaring limestone cliffs all day. Given how built up the rest of the area feels, Tonsai is a breath of fresh air, a utopian climbers oasis, as yet still untouched by the resort and tourism development.
To get from Koh Lanta to Tonsai, I took a big ferry across, and met a few friends along the way.
I arrived at West Railay beach by boat, and immediately made my way over to Tonsai to check in at my own private bungalow for $4/night.
Naturally, first stop in Tonsai was for food. And where else but Mama’s Chicken, the best chicken in the universe. Mama’s Chicken is a small shack along one of the main dirt paths into the jungle, and it’s where lots of people congregate at night. All the food, and fruit shakes, is amazing.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8772928263/in/set-72157633589699628
And a perfect end to a solid day of travel at one of the beachside bars. During the day this place is a chillout spot and volleyball match grandstand, evening it’s a bar, and late night the deck turns into an impromptu hostel. Something for everyone, with cheap beer all around.
Day two, the first order of the day is of course climbing on the incredible limestone.
Here’s me getting to the cruxy section on “Groove Tube” on the Firewall.
A few days later, I got rid of my harness and gear and went bouldering – but this time the bouldering was on rock outcroppings over the water, and the start of every climb was straight out of the water – it’s called Deep Water Solo in Thailand.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8779038792/in/set-72157633589699628
Me!
Later afternoon exploring secluded beaches and caves.
Overal, the week I spent rock climbing at Tonsai was simply incredible, and I can’t wait to go back. It’s certainly a climbers paradise, with more culture, friends, good food, cold drinks, and climbs than you can possible take in during one trip. Let me know if you’d like to go back with me!
Antarctica, New Zealand, Australia, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, and now, the country I’ve certainly been looking forward to for long enough, Thailand.
My first entry into Thailand was via Koh Lanta, on the Southwestern coast. This smallish island is a new-ish vacation destination, and as such, still has the laid back thai island vibe. Koh Lanta is accessed through Krabi, and in the interest of time, I flew up from Kuala Lumpur to Krabi, and then took a bus and ferry over to Koh Lanta. In Koh Lanta, I met up with an old friend who was on her final days in Thailand before departure. Although Lanta only lasted a few days, it was certainly a fun, relaxing intro to Thailand, and gave me a great starting point for island hopping and rock climbing in the south.
The ferry from Krabi to Ko Lanta
In Koh Lanta, I stayed at the New Coconut Bungalow. The place is right on the beach, and overall I had a great experience there – friendly staff, good food, and decent rooms. However, beware that since the recent Tsunami, the place has only been halfway rebuilt. THe photo I have of the pool and beach are looking from the edge of the rebuilt area – behind me is a barren dusty parking lot and a few dying trees. That being said, for the price I paid, it was still a great time, and I ended up meeting a bunch of cool people after my friend left.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8762954906/in/set-72157633539854429
Sunset on the first night. When the tide goes out, the low water reveals a beautiful rocky bottom, filled with tidal pools. I followed a local fisherman out onto the rocks to learn how to fish for octopus in the tidal pools.
A month spent in Indonesia and two days in Singapore, I whittled it down to one day in Kuala Lumpur. I was on a tight schedule, since I was meeting a friend up in Koh Lanta, Thailand in a few days. However, I still wanted to at least see a bit of Malaysia, and decided that a one day stop in KL would do it. I took the overnight train up from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur, which I love – Sleeper cars are great, and consolodate both long distance transportation as well as sleeping accomodations into one. You go to sleep in one place, wake up in the next – it’s comfy, inexpensive, and a bit romantic.
Anyway, I arrived in the morning in KL and checked into the Reggae Mansion, a very hip backpackers hostel. A few pics from KL.
KL’s convenient monorail, which runs all over town.
Naturally, my first stop was the Petronas Towers. After years of reading about these towers in architecture books, it was an incredible experience to actually stand at the base of them – and then go explore the upper floors.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8756129811/in/set-72157633525242767
Looking across the bride that connects the middle of the two towers.
Checking out Thean Hou Temple, where couples go to apply for marriage licenses.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8757218786/in/set-72157633525242767
Ascending to Batu Caves.. and being careful with the monkeys!
And finally, a quick stop in little India to see strings of wedding flowers made.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8757193256/in/set-72157633525242767
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8756063385/in/set-72157633525242767
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8756056979/in/set-72157633525242767
Finally, I’ve made it to the city-state of Singapore. Jakarta was nice as was the reset of Indonesia, but emerging into Singapore felt like being reborn into the future. Singapore is ultra modern, extremely clean, meticulously beautiful, and has a class and character of its own. What a breath of fresh air.
Singapore is intense – the entire place is constrained to one island, and all wealth generated gets funneled back into this small island oasis. Buildings are continuously being made brand new. Roads are perfect. Transit is on time and comfortable as riding in a limo. Any amenity you need is available. Additionally, Singapore has a unique history and feel of its own. The locals are warm and friendly, and amidst the continuous maze of shopping malls and luxury resorts, there are character-filled enclaves of local people, ethnic neighborhoods, and asian flavor. I’d recommend that if you’re in the area, you take a trip of at least a day or two to Singapore. If you’re not so much into ritzyness and high class shopping, maybe just a day or two for the essentials.
During the one day I spent in Singapore, I decided to try to see an overview of as much as possible.. and went by the mega tourist route, doing the double decker tourist bus. After a good experience doing the double decker bus with friend Emily in NYC, I thought it might be a cool way to see an overview of Singapore too.
Of course, spending time in the shadow of the Marina Bay Sands Integrated Resort was great. The resort has everything, and I spent a solid half of my time in there.
Saya and I got drinks on the roof and enjoyed an amazing view.
Lots of shopping, including an extended conversation with reps at Louis Vuitton and Leica. Let me know if you’d like to send me a Leica M to test out.. I’ll post the photos on this blog! :)
Aside from the shopping, architecture in the city is beautiful. Even underpasses are new and nice.
Ranging in height from 25 to 50 metres, the Gardens’ 18 Supertrees are basically vertical gardens covered in bromeliads, ferns and tropical flowering climbers. Two of the trees are connected via an aerial walkway.
It’s pretty innovative stuff. The structures mimic the ecological functions of real trees through their environmentally sustainable features.
Some have photovoltaic cells on their canopies to harvest solar energy to light up at night, others are integrated with cooled conservatories and serve as air exhaust receptacles.
In addition to exploring Singapore, I also blocked off a whole day to explore Changi International Airport. Frequently regarded as one of the best airports in the world, I was interested in it enough that I decided to devote a whole 12 hours to fully exploring it.
I arrived at Changi at midnight, and instead of leaving the airport, I stayed there at one of the hotels within the secure “sterile” area. Quite a nice luxury! My room was basic, but clean and quiet, and included access to the gym and rooftop swimming pool and bar. Decent amenities for an airport hotel room inside the airport!
One of the many quiet lounges to relax in – all with free super-fast wifi interent.
The rooftop cactus garden, with bar.
Structural Garden
One of the many luxurious waiting areas, with spectacular views of the airplane operations.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8670204905/in/set-72157633298136149
Candy, free, at all info desks. All of the info desk people spoke great english.
Another one of the outdoor gardens, which was nice to wander through..
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8670217939/in/set-72157633298136149
Should the free wifi kill your phone’s battery, there’s free, secure charging stands everywhere – including for the new iPhone5 Lightening connector!
The butterfly garden, with a ton of beautiful butterflies.
Any electronics you want can be bought at the airport.
Free, 24/7 movie theater.
The oh so relaxing indoor Bamboo Garden.
Sports area
Serene Koi Pond
Of course there’s a rooftop Sunflower Garden.
Another smaller movie theater.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8670295343/in/set-72157633298136149
LAN Gaming Room
A little bit of home.. they have my favourite travel store, Flight001!
The lobby of one of the airport hotels.
And finally, the grand finish, the multi-story slide. Awesome!
On March 6 2013, my good friend and travel buddy Jan and I finally made it out of the expanses of Java, and into Indonesia’s capital, Jakarta. Arrival in Jakarta was a long time coming – It’s a city I’ve heard about continuously for years. Two close friends of mine have moved there for extended periods of time, and I’ve seen and heard all sorts of different accounts of the city.
For some reason, prior to my arrival, the image I had in my head of Jakarta was a distinctly rough one. I had heard that it was a rough, crowded, loud city. I heard stories of local women befriending whites guys very quickly. I heard or crazy bars, crime, and everything else. And for some reason, the image in my head was of a city of rubble – much like the depiction of the city of Mogadishu, Somalia in the film “Black Hawk Down”. So that’s what I was preparing myself for. But what Jan and I found was a much different place.
Jakarta turned out to be splendid oasis in Indonesia. Yes, it’s crowded, loud, smelly, and dangerous. But it’s also refined, beautiful, peaceful, and depending on where you go, quite safe. I felt welcomed to Jakart with open arms by the Indonesias I befriended – both my wonderful hosts at the EXCELLENT Six Degrees Backpackers Hostel, as well as the cool kids who reached out to me on CouchSurfing.com.
A brief note on Six Degrees Backpackers Hostel: It’s great. Really great. Out of all of the hostels I’ve stayed at around the world, Six Degrees definitely ranks up there in the top 5, if not the top 3. If you’re traveling to Jakarta and looking for an inexpensive hostel atmosphere, with great other travelers to meet, a super social atmosphere, clean, quiet accommodations, tasty food, and the best staff you can imagine, stay at Six Degrees. The location is not the absolute most ideal, but taxis are cheap, and what Six Degrees doesn’t have in location, if more than makes up for in charm and comfort. Stay at Six Degrees, it’s great. Find Six Degrees on Tripadvisor too.
Jan’s stay in Jakarta was a quick 2 days, and then I was on my own for the rest of my time there – however by “On My Own”, I mean surrounded by the nicest people, excited to share their city with me. A few pics from Jakarta:
Arriving in Jakarta, Jan and I took a walk around town – through a few peaceful riverside enclaves.
And then the Tuk-Tuks started. These three wheelers are everywhere, with their maniacal drivers trying every trick in the book to get you inside. Prices are crazy, and the driving style is even crazier. Fun for a quick experience, though.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8633746310/in/set-72157633201887214
Jakarta’s Istiqlal Mosque – the largest Mosque in SE Asia. From Wikipedia:
Istiqlal Mosque, or Masjid Istiqlal, (Independence Mosque) in Jakarta, Indonesia is the largest mosque in Southeast Asia[1] and has the highest capacity. This national mosque of Indonesia was built to commemorate Indonesian independence and named “Istiqlal”, an Arabic word for “independence”. The mosque was opened to the public 22 February 1978. Within Jakarta, the mosque is positioned next to Merdeka Square and the Jakarta Cathedral.
The mosque is a beautiful structure, and the constant hum of worshippers walking around is even nicer. After taking off our shoes, Jan and I were given a personalized tour of the place, including the main worship room, which is huge.
Taman Mini Indonesia. What a weird place. This once great park tries to embody all aspects of indonesia culture into one park, and includes houses built in the styles of all of Indonesia’s tribes and regions. Centrally, it features a lake with islands in the shape of Indonesias islands. Something similar to the “The World” island formation in Dubai.. but smaller and crappier. Do not waste a day going here.
Songkran, in Jakarta. During the time I was in Jakarta, Thailand was celebrating their new years – and the Thai community in Jakarta got in on the action. I met up with a few friends to shoot waterguns at eachother and run around partying. A great time!.
Car Free Sundays. Every Sunday, the main drag through Jakarta shuts down for the morning, and the locals come out to bike, ride and walk around in the fresh, quiet air.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8632624751/in/set-72157633201887214
As a thanks to the Six Degrees Backpackers Hostel, I made them a mug with my picture on it. They loved it. What an ego move! :)
Since finishing up my work contract at the South Pole Station in February, I’ve been doing a bit of travel. Staring in New Zealand, so far I’ve spent time in New Zealand, Australia, Indonesia, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Thailand, and Myanmar. Right now I’m writing this post from Chiang Mai, Thailand.
As I travel, staying in contact becomes a bit harder. First of all, getting a solid internet connection in villages that are sometimes way off the main road is difficult. Last week in Myanmar, using the best internet connection in Yangon at Traders Hotel, I was barely able to get dial-up speeds, and that’s during the moments that there was working electricity. Constant connections are hard. Additionally, there’s simply so many incredible adventures I’ve been going on, and people I’ve been meeting, that it’s been a struggle to strike a balance between actually doing, and taking a break to post about everything. I’ve bended to prioritize doing more than writing, and as a result, posts have been a bit thin.
However, I have been taking lots of photos, and currently have a little over 10,000 photos in my editing queue. I’ll be editing and posting as time allows please stay tuned!
After making the long trek by bus across Eastern Java, Jan and I finally made it to the cultural capital of Indonesia, Yogyakarta. As the cultural capital, the town is filled with vendors selling locally made silver jewlrey, batiked textiles, and a whole host of other artwork and handycrafts.
Jan and I only had one full day in Yogya, but we made the most of it by visiting the main walking street, central temple and a ton of small vendors. At the end of our day there, we got on a high speed train toward Bandung, a short ride outside of Jakarta. Pics.
Our base of operations, the train station, was naturally an excellent place for photos.
Pedicabs lined up, waiting for unsuspecting tourists.. like us!
Gamelan, traditional Indonesian music being played at the Kraton.
After sunrise at Borobudur, Jan and I headed over to the Hindu Temple of Prabanan. The temple’s design and construction is a stark contrast to the looks of Borobudur. Although the main temples still stand, Java’s 2006 earthquake destroyed almost all of the peripheral temples, leaving only foundations. Reconstruction efforts continue, and we were lucky enough to arrive just weeks after the main temple was reopened. Pics.
After an early morning sunrise on Mt. Ijen and another at Mt. Bromo, Jan and I decided to continue the trend and go for a 3rd sunrise at the ancient Mahayana Buddhist Temple of Borobudur.
Borobudur, or Barabudur, is a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist Temple in Magelang, Central Java, Indonesia. The monument consists of six square platforms topped by three circular platforms, and is decorated with 2,672 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues.[1] A main dome, located at the center of the top platform, is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues seated inside a perforated stupa.
Built in the 9th century during the reign of the Sailendra Dynasty, the temple’s design in Gupta architecture reflects India’s influence on the region. It also depicts the gupta style from India and shows influence of Buddhism as well as Hinduism.[2][3] The monument is both a shrine to the Lord Buddha and a place for Buddhist pilgrimage. The journey for pilgrims begins at the base of the monument and follows a path around the monument and ascends to the top through three levels symbolic of Buddhist cosmology: K?madh?tu (the world of desire), Rupadhatu (the world of forms) and Arupadhatu (the world of formlessness). The monument guides pilgrims through an extensive system of stairways and corridors with 1,460 narrative relief panels on the walls and the balustrades.
Evidence suggest Borobudur was constructed in the 9th century and abandoned following the 14th century decline of Hindu kingdoms in Java, and the Javanese conversion to Islam.[4] Worldwide knowledge of its existence was sparked in 1814 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, then the British ruler of Java, who was advised of its location by native Indonesians. Borobudur has since been preserved through several restorations. The largest restoration project was undertaken between 1975 and 1982 by the Indonesian government and UNESCO, following which the monument was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.[5] Borobudur is still used for pilgrimage; once a year Buddhists in Indonesia celebrate Vesak at the monument, and Borobudur is Indonesia’s single most visited tourist attraction.
Arriving at the temple early in the morning, a thick morning fog hung over the ancient stones.
All visitors to Borobudur are required to wear traditional Sarongs. Upon arriving at the end entrance gate, before going through security, one of the park rangers helps each guest put one on.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8632367772/in/set-72157633193228871
As a still active temple, Borobudur draws in both tourists and worshippers, including these monks.
Intricate stone carvings adorn the entire structure. Considering how many times this monument has been robbed, bombed, lost, and destroyed, it’s still in incredibly good shape – thanks to an army of experts working on its constant maintenance and restoration.
The Stupas, Borobudurs hallmark feature point towards the heavens.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8632354890/in/set-72157633193228871
Leg two of our journey across Java took us to the foot of Mt. Bromo, a stratovolcano that lies smoking inside the Tengger caldera. Pics.
After a long enough drive from Mt. Ijen to the mountains surrounding Mt. Bromo, we arrived in the mountain town of Sukapura to check in to the Yoschi Hotel. Nestled high up in the mountains, our perch gave us incredible views of the surrounding fog blanketed mountains, with agricultural plantations rising up on the surrounding hillsides.
Jan and I spent the evening walking around the small farming village, and then had a quick dinner at the hotel before going to bed early. Another 3am wakeup, and we were off in our Toyota Land Cruiser towards Bromo. Notably, the mountain guides in the area have maintained an absolutely enormous fleet of old school original Toyota Land Cruisers, which are almost exclusively used on Mt. Bromo. The vehicles are in good condition, despite their age, and have fresh paint jobs. We drove through the night high up into the mountains, finally arriving pre-dawn at the Mt. Bromo overlook.
Since it was Easter weekend, the overlook area was packed with Indonesians on holiday. Despite the crowds, I managed to work my way to the front for a perfect view of the valley below. As the sun started to rise, the beautiful valley was revealed, with the smoking Mt. Bromo crater in the distance. The changing colors as the sun rose were beautiful, and morning air was peaceful – despite the kids all around us!
Mount Bromo (Indonesian: Gunung Bromo), is an active volcano and part of the Tengger massif, in East Java, Indonesia. At 2,329 metres (7,641 ft) it is not the highest peak of the massif, but is the most well known. The massif area is one of the most visited tourist attractions in East Java, Indonesia. The volcano belongs to the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. The name of Bromo derived from Javanese pronunciation of Brahma, the Hindu creator god.
Mount Bromo sits in the middle of a vast plain called the “Sea of Sand” (Javanese: Segara Wedi or Indonesian: Lautan Pasir), a protected nature reserve since 1919. The typical way to visit Mount Bromo is from the nearby mountain village of Cemoro Lawang. From there it is possible to walk to the volcano in about 45 minutes, but it is also possible to take an organised jeep tour, which includes a stop at the viewpoint on Mount Penanjakan (2,770 m or 9,088 ft) (Indonesian: Gunung Penanjakan). The best views from Mount Bromo to the Sand Sea below and the surrounding volcanoes are at sunrise. The viewpoint on Mount Penanjakan can also be reached on foot in about two hours. From inside the caldera, sulfur is collected by workers.
Depending on the degree of volcanic activity, the Indonesian Centre for Vulcanology and Disaster Hazard Mitigation sometimes issues warnings against visiting Mount Bromo.
After witnessing the sunrise from our viewpoint on Mt. Penanjakan, we climbed back in the Land Cruiser and journeyed down to the Sea of Sand, which rests directly at the bast of Bromo. A quick 30 minute hike across the ash field, and we had reached the grouping of Bakso vendors, horses, and pilgrims coming to offer flowers to the mountain. Jan and I stopped for a hot bowl of Bakso, a traditional javanese meatball soup, sold out of mobile kitchens mounted on motor bikes.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8630278867/in/set-72157633195244344
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8631386004/in/set-72157633195244344
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8630277111/in/set-72157633195244344
At the top of the crater rim, we could see down into the smoking acid lake.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8631383828/in/set-72157633195244344
High up in the mountains of East Java, Indonesia, Mt. Ijen’s crater smokes and bubbles with sulfur gas. The sulfur hear leaks out of the volcanic crater in a giant plume of smoke, and local miners, wearing little more than gas masks, collect the sulfur and hike it out of the crater on their backs.
After returning to Bali from Komodo, Jan and I decided to travel together for a bit. Our schedules were compatible, and we both had to meet people in the western part of Indonesia around the same time. After a good experience on the boat with Perama Tours, we decided to book with them again on a westward leg which would take us from Bali across to Java, onto Mt. Ijen, then Mt. Bromo, and finally dropping us off in centrally located Yogyakarta. Pics.
The first leg of our journey was getting out of Bali. We rode by minibus from Kuta, Bali up to the northwest corner of the island. From there, a quick car ferry took us across, and then we boarded another minibus to Ijen.
Once we got to Java, we realized that the otherwise excellent Perama Tours was actually just selling us a transportation ticket with a number of different carriers, with varying levels of quality. The transportation worked, but overal I think we would have preferred a bit better transportation, and drivers who spoke better English. I can’t recommend the transportation carriers that Perama Tours contracts with on Java. However, the actual locations of our journey through Java were absolutely incredible. Perama Tours, you need to inform your customers of exactly how you arrange the transportation, and state clearly in your brochure that the drivers do not speak english and are unable to provide any information or support. More info on our tour package – note that while the things we saw on this tour were great, the organization by Perama Tours left a lot to be desired.
Anyway, after a bit of a drive across Java, and an epic ascent up into the mountains around Mt. Ijen, we arrived for the night at the former Dutch Coffee Plantation of Kaliklatak and settled in for the night.
An early morning 3am wakeup, and we were off across the mountains towards Mt. Ijen. Sunrise was beautiful, and a bit apocalyptic in feeling. In addition to the mist covering the flanks of the stratovolcano, wisps of toxic sulfur gas wafted from the crater, mixing with the mist. As we hiked up the side of the volcano to the crater rim, the smell of sulfur became stronger and stronger. There’s one main trail connecting the village at the base to the mining area, and that trail is used by both tourists as wll as the sulfur miners themselves. On our way up, we saw a number of miners, each carrying close to 100kg of sulfur on their backs. The trail was littered with pebbles of yellow sulfur, which stuck out from the black background of volcanic ash.
More on Ijen, from Wikipedia:
The Ijen volcano complex is a group of stratovolcanoes, in East Java, Indonesia. It is inside a larger caldera Ijen, which is about 20 kilometers wide. The Gunung Merapi stratovolcano is the highest point of that complex. The name of this volcano resembles that of a different volcano, Mount Merapi in central Java, also known as Gunung Merapi; there is also a third volcano named Marapi in Sumatra. The name “Merapi” means “fire” in the Indonesian language.
West of Gunung Merapi is the Ijen volcano, which has a one-kilometer-wide turquoise-colored acid crater lake. The lake is the site of a labor-intensive sulfur mining operation, in which sulfur-laden baskets are carried by hand from the crater floor. The work is low-paid and very onerous. Workers earn around $5.50-$8.30 (Rp 50,000 – Rp 75,000) per day and once out of the crater, still need to carry their loads of sulfur chunks about three kilometers to the nearby Pultuding valley to get paid.[1]
Many other post-caldera cones and craters are located within the caldera or along its rim. The largest concentration of post-caldera cones forms an east/west-trending zone across the southern side of the caldera. The active crater at Kawah Ijen has an equivalent radius of 361 metres (1,184 ft), a surface of 0.41 square kilometres (0.16 sq mi). It is 200 metres (660 ft) deep and has a volume of 36 cubic hectometres (29,000 acre·ft).
In 2008, explorer George Kourounis took a small rubber boat out onto the acid lake to measure its acidity. The pH of the water in the crater was measured to be 0.5 due to sulfuric acid.[2]
At the lip of the crater, there were a fair number of tourists, and a clear view down to the smoking sulfur lake and sulfur vents below. The wind was blowing the day we arrived, and everyone we talked to – even the miners, said that there was no way we could descend into the crater – if the winds changed and blew the gas towards us, without masks, we risked suffocation and poisoning.
However, Jan and I had come too far, and gotten too excited about this place to just give up and go home. After evaluating the wind conditions for a while, we decided to try the hike into the crater anyway, and just hope that the winds didn’t shift on us. As we started the treacherous decent, we were accompanied by two other Chinese tourists – and watched by the 100 or so other tourists who told us we were crazy for trying.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8631254130/in/set-72157633194891616
At the bottom of the crater, it looked like another planet. Sulfur coated all the rocks, and everything. As light wisps of gas drifted over us, we could feel it collecting on our sweaty skin, and in our lungs. Luckily it was only wisps, and not full clouds of gas. There were two miners at the sulfur vents when we arrived. In addition to mining the sulfur, they were taking small amounts of the hot liquid sulfur and pouring it into molds for tourist trinkets. It was certainly very strange to see a Hello Kitty figurine made out of pure sulfur. One of the miners, wearing a gas mask, took us over to the actual vents, and showed us how they break up the slabs of cooled sulfur into chucks small enough to hike out. We were right on the edge, about 2 feet from the deadly sulfur vents – and luckily the wind didn’t shift.
After making it safely out of the crater – with only one serious cloud of gas drifting over us and choking us for a brief moment, we stopped at a little cafe on the hillside for a “hooray we survived” refreshment, and then headed off to the next stop – Mt. Bromo.
After a few weeks in Bali, it was time for me to move on – to the far east of Indonesia. Meeting up with adventure operator Perama Tours, I made the long voyage eastward to see the Komodo Dragons of Komodo and Rinca islands, Indonesia. A few pics.
Our boat departed from Lombok, an island just to the east of Bali. Although I could have taken a ferry or speedboat there, I decided to fly from Bali to Lombok, and then take a bus across Lombok to the small town of Sengiggi. Sengiggi was nothing special, and I stayed in a very sketchy hotel – but only for one night, before getting on the boat the next morning.
Morning 1 of our voyage to Flores was actually spent on land, exploring a bit of Lombok. First stop was a village in which traditional pottery is made. Here, the locals stack up wet pottery and fire it by burning stacks of hay on top. A smoky, yet effective method. Reminded me of the traditional indian pottery made in the American Southwest, complete with rubbing and scratching.
Finally, on the boat – the Santosa. The Santosa is a traditional Indonesian fishing style boat, which has been custom built to house guests. It’s made of heavy wood, and constructed locally by hand, without the use of any pre-drawn plans.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8617399899/in/set-72157633158073851
Our first stop at sea was a small sand island with a few shacks, and fire pit. We relaxed all day, did a bit of snorkeling, and had a bbq for dinner. Of note, I think I’ve ruined myself a bit by doing some of the worlds great dives with my much loved sailing crew. Although the snorkeling in Indonesia was fun, it just didn’t stack up to dives I’ve done in the BVI, Mexico, or most notably, the Blue Hole in Belize. Also on the small island, a group of farmers grew peanuts and sesame seeds. While most everybody else was sunbathing, I hiked around to hang out with the farmers.
In order to make good time at sea, and get all the way across to the east side of Indonesia, we sailed all through the night. This time around, I was merely a passenger, and not part of the crew. At night, the crew would sleep in shifts, and keep the boat moving all night. Along with the rest of the passengers, I slept on deck in the cool nighttime air.
The next morning, we arrived at another beautiful island. First things first, a morning swim off the boat. I was fortunate to be part of a great group of people onboard, and we all got along very well. Then, a quick hike to get the blood moving in the morning, and then a swim in a very beautiful brackish lake. Interestingly, the locals hang up bits of coral from the trees, for good luck. In addition to the lake, we also spent time on the beach, and exploring the local farmers village.
Day three – Komodo Island. We woke up in the morning having anchored just off the shore of Komodo Island, and made the trek into the interior of the island. Although most of the time I’m not particularly scared by animals, this time there was a definite feeling of uneasyness amongst the group. Komodo Dragons frequently eat water buffalo, and other animals as large or large than humans. Their bite is venomous, and after biting, they wait for their prey to die, and then eat them. In addition to many Komodo Dragons, we also saw a deadly Asian Pit Viper, about a foot and a half away from the trail on which we were hiking.
And of course, later in the day, relaxing on the beaches of Komodo Island.. after having just seen these massive lizards on the same island, I was a bit uneasy hanging out on the beach.. imagining a Jurassic Park-type situation.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8618530348/in/set-72157633158073851
And an afternoon sleeping on the boat.
That evening, we sailed into Labuan Bajo, Flores for dinner and a walk around the local fish market. Fish markets are always good for interesting photos, but this one was good for only that – flies and rotting fish were everywhere, and after a few photos, we got out of there quick. I was walking around Labuan Bajo with friends Jan and Sebastian.
The next day, more Komodo Dragons, this time on Rinca Island. Rinca was nice – and hot. Notably, we saw a young Komodo in a tree.
After returning overnight on the boat to Lombok, Jan and I partnered up to make the trek from Lombok all the way across Indonesia to Jakarta. Jan was meeting his girlfriend in Singapore in a few days, and I was meeting a friend in Thailand. Our schedules just happened to work out perfectly, and we had the same ideas for things to see across Indonesia, so we traveled for a while together.
First leg was a speedboat from Lombok back to Bali, where we spent one night at a nice enough hotel.
The Sacred Monkey Forest of Padangtegal is owned by the village of Padangtegal. Village members serve on the Sacred Monkey Forest’s governing council (The Padangtegal Wenara Wana Foundation). The Padangtegal Wenara Wana Foundation has historically strived to develop and implement management objectives that will both maintain the sacred integrity of the monkey forest and promote the monkey forest as a sacred site that is open to visitors from around the world.
First of all, the monkeys like bananas. I arrived in the early morning, and had intended to buy a bunch of bananas and eat them myself as my own breakfast, while I peacefully watched the monkeys. However, as soon as I walked into the forest with my bananas, the monkeys were all over me, and stole all of my bananas before I could eat them myself. Lesson learned.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8616161281/in/set-72157633154879965
The monkeys hang out all day, and are fairly accustomed to human visitors. However sometimes, they need their own space.
In addition to monkeys, the actual grounds of the forest are beautiful – Hilary and I spent the morning exploring the hidden temples, streams, waterfalls, and alcoves hidden all around the forest.
After a few weeks on the beach in Bali, it was time time get out – and into the cool air of the northern Balinese mountains. Friend Andi was nice enough to have rented me a motor bike the week prior, and so I packed up my bags, hopped on the bike, and headed up north towards Munduk. Driving out of the crowds and into the mountains was great – and as I climbed higher, the heat and humidity started to decrease – but just a little. A few pics from Munduk.
After a week or two relaxing in Ubud, I moved down to Kuta to check out the surfing and partying scene. Initially I went down with friend Cynthia to surf for a few days – but stayed longer to meet up with Jessica and friends to do a bit of market research on bars in the area. A few pics from our explorations of Kuta – trashy club scene and all.
Learning to surf with Cynthia. Local surf instructor Edwin naturally gave me the biggest, easiest surfboard to learn on.
Staying in the Kuta Beach Heritage Hotel with Jessica, we had our own rooftop pool, and a great location.
First stop of the night was the Hard Rock Hotel. Not the classiest of places, however the all-Indonesian cover band was surprisingly well rehearsed.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8617278300/in/set-72157633154879959
Sunset at El Kabron, a bit south in Uluwatu.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8617283798/in/set-72157633154879959
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8616175905/in/set-72157633154879959
Moving on to Sky Bar at the Mulia Resort. The place is so big that they took us by golf cart from the valet station to the beachside bar.
Also, we stopped by Potatohead.
And of course, finished in the horribly trashy Sky Garden – but still had fun.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8616173023/in/set-72157633154879959
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8617279356/in/set-72157633154879959
While exploring Bali, I spent a good amount of time in Ubud. My now good friend Jessica graciously hosted me at her amazingly nice house just north of Ubud, and between her and a bunch of other friends, I had a great time hanging out for a few weeks. A few pics from Ubud.
Tasty dinners at neighbors Anna and Andi’s house.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8616182953/in/set-72157633154879953
Laptopping and swimming at Jessica’s house.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8616181481/in/set-72157633154879953
Balinese weddings are a big celebration, and part of that celebration is food. During my time staying in Ubud, Bali with Jessica, my neighbors started preparations for a wedding just down the street. A few pics:
Preparation starts in the afternoon, with the selection of two pigs, totaling 100kg. The pigs are hog tied and set out in the community courtyard.
Since no refridgeration is used, preparation of the meal must be perfectly timed to be ready when the meal is scheduled to begin. Because of this, the first step in the preparation starts at about 2AM. We all got up out of bed to start the process. Unfortunately, this was as far as I got in witnessing the preparation. The next day I went surfing in Kuta, and missed the actual wedding ceremony.
My first day in Ubud, Bali was certainly exciting. After flying back from Yogyakarta with Jessica, Cynthia, Anna, and Alisa, we immediately headed into the center of Ubud for the traditional Balinese Tawur Kesanga Festival. A little background..
The day before Nyepi is known as Tawur Kesanga or Pengerupuk and is the day on which evil spirit are driven away. The villages and neighborhoods are cleaned, food is cooked for 2 days and at dusk people start to bang pots and pans and carry torches through their houses. Then they go outside joining with others to make fearful sounds and sprinkling rice over the alleyways and roads. Demon effgies or huge monsters with bulging eyes made of bamboo, papier-mâché and cloth and known as ogoh-ogoh are carried through the streets in torch-lit parades. These demons represent the mythical giant Bhuta Kala and symbolize evil. This is the one day of the year when cock fghting is permitted because the spilling of blood is necessary for the purpose of purifcation. At the main crossroads offerings are placed on the ground to entice the demons and evil spirits. The offerings, which are sometimes smelly and include blood – small chickens are sacrifced – are for the devils and demons and are always placed on the ground. The offerings for the gods are placed on platforms specially made for this purpose. Once the demons have been lured, the priests then recite curses on them in order to force them to leave the village. Everybody joins in to help by beating pots and tin cans, tooting vehicle horns and making lots of noise. This is called mabuu-buu. Children go around the villages in groups enjoying the fun.
The festivities begin with lots of kids carting the figures through town to their staging areas, where they wait for it to get dark..
Darkness falls, and the festivities begin.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8617295470/in/set-72157633154879943
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8617294236/in/set-72157633154879943
After taking part in Ana and Andang’s beautiful wedding, I went the next morning with my group of girls to explore Yogyakarta’s Batik industry. Yogyakarta is knows as the cultural capital of Java, and one of the crafts that they do there is Batik.
Waking up in the morning at a five star hotel is not without its perks, including a very complete breakfast buffet, and classy transportation.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8576439935/in/set-72157633048028497
Batik, with the wax masks laid down by hand.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8576431857/in/set-72157633048028497
For higher volume batik, the men use metal stamps to lay down the wax.
Rich dyes are used.
The original designs are traced by hand, before the women retrace the pencil marks with wax.
Jessica learning how to trace the intricate patterns.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8577408578/in/set-72157633048028497
The women work in large warehouses, and sit in social circles, chatting while they trace.
During the Austral Summer of 2012-2013, I traveled to Antarctica to work as a Cook, EMT, Tour Guide, and Photojournalist at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. While I was living there, I took over 10,000 photos, hours of video footage, and published an article about life in Antarctica on my blog every single day. Here’s a brief wrapup of my time in Antarctica, with links to all of the content I produced.
After flying DENver>San Francisco>Los Angeles, I flew on an Airbus A380 from Los Angeles USA to Sydney Australia. Then I flew on a Boeing 777-300ER from Sydney Australia to Christchurch New Zealand.
Outside the International Antarctic Centre in Christchurch, New Zealand. This is the New Zealand office location of the United States Antarctic Program, and serves as the departure point to the main US Stations – McMurdo and Amundsen-Scott.
At the Clothing Distrubution Center at the International Antarctic Centre, we receive our Extreme Cold Weather (ECW) Gear. We’re given a few minutes to try everything on for size.
The US Air Force C-17 Globemaster III, which I flew from Christchurch, New Zealand to McMurdo Station, Antarctica. This military jet can fly both people and supplies.
Abord the C17 flying Christchurch>McMurdo. People sit in conventional airplane seats, as well as on webbing seats along the walls. Additionally, my flight was carrying pallets of scientific equiptment and machinery.
Flying over Antarctica, with the tips of huge mountains poking out from beneath the polar ice cap.
Upon landing at McMurdo, I’m shuttled to the station by this giant bus. I only stay at McMurdo for one night, before getting back on a flight to the South Pole.
Inside the shuttle facility at McMurdo Station. Everybody who is going to South Pole must tag their bags accordingly, so that bags are correctly routed when “Bag Drag” happens – the loading of everybody’s luggage into the luggage facility.
The LC-130 Hercules, which I flew from McMurdo Station to Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. This plane is much smaller, and is one of only about 10 “LC” models equipped with both skiis and wheels for landing gear. The plane can take off on wheels from a traditional runway, and land on skis on an ice runway.
Inside the “herc”, everybody sits along the wall, with bags and equiptment in the middle and in back. The airplane is loud, and earplugs are passed out at the start of the flight.
Once airborne, free roaming around the airplane’s cargo bay is allowed. The view out the window, passing over the Transantarctic mountains, is beautiful.
Finally, arrived at the South Pole. On the day I arrived, the temperature was -40 degrees – that first breath of air was cold!
Arrived at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, Antarctica. The geographic pole is about 200 meters away from this sign.
The mirrored ball at the Ceremonial South Pole. This pole is only used for ceremonial purposes, and does not mark anything.
Ceremonial South Pole, with my United States Antarctic Program – issued ECW Jacket. It has a patch with my name on it, and a USAP logo patch.
Slicing meat in the Kitchen. One of my jobs on station was as the lead breakfast cook, and assistant lunch cook.
My daily breakfast spread, consisting of eggs, potatoes, bacon, an entree, french toast, yogurt, cut fruit, granola, oatmeal, and pasteries. I made this breakfast 6 mornings/week for all 170 people at the station.
The galley, where the station crew eats. The TV’s on the cieling show the “galley scroll” info, such as weather, flight schedule, social events, and internet access times.
The post office at the south pole station is the world’s southern-most post office. Normal US mail rates apply.
The southern most post office in the world, as well as our general store. Here, we could buy apparrel, souvineers, toiletries, and rent DVD movies.
The greenhouse is not used in the summer, however in the winter it’s used to grow fresh food for the station staff to eat.
Beneath the elevated station, there’s a labrynth of storage, supply, and utility spaces. This includes the Ice Tunnels, Storage Arch, Fuel Arch, and Vehicle Maintenance Facility. This is the entrance to the under-ice utility corridors, at the base of the “Beer Can”. the structure connecting the elevated station to the utility spaces.
Inside the ice tunnels, which route water, sewage and electrical lines. 50 feet under the ice, the temperature here is a constant -60 degrees F.
A utility technician taking readings on one of the massive engines which make the station’s power and heat. The station burns 600,000 gallons of AN8 jet fuel yearly to keep everything powered up and warm.
The South Pole Telescope, which is able to look at the Cosmic Microwave Background, a remanant of the Big Bang.
Working with the KECK Array science team on maintaining the receivers that make up the telescope.
The heart of one of the receivers of the KECK Array, the niobium framed focal planes. These get cooled down to around 250 milikelvin.
Liquid helium escaping an overflow valve, while air condenses instantly into a liquid.
Outside of the Ice Cube Laboratory, the Askaryan Radio Array team sets up their workshop.
Twin Otters are frequently used by science teams for accessing remote field camps.
The roof of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s Atmospheric Research Observatory, where the cleanest air in the world is sampled.
A luau under an airdrop parachute in front of the station. This was on the last day of 2012.
A concert on new years eve in the gym. New years eve at the south pole included multiple performances, drinks, and lots of dancing.
Running the South Pole Marathon. 26.3 miles in -20F temperatures. I ran it in 05:41.
To run outside, full head protection must be worn, including a gaiter and goggles.
Since the south pole station is on a moving sheet of ice, the location of the marker planted in the moving ice drifts by about 10 meters per year. Every years on new years day, the Geographic South Pole Marker is re-planted at the true pole of the earth, and a new metal marker is revealed. In this ceremony, the station staff are symbolically passing the American Flag from the 2012 marker location to the new 2013 marker location.
Toursts visit the south pole too. Although they are allowed in the elevated station for brief tours, they are restricted to camping out in the “NGO Camp” about a half mile away from the station. Adventure Network International runs the tourist camp.
Tourists visiting the south pole. Most tourists arrive on airplanes, such as this DC-3 Basler turboprop. Other groups of tourists ski in, covering the last degree or two degrees of lattitude.
The south pole station hosts many guests throughout the season. Here, I’m pictured with NASA Astronaut and UTMB Medical Director Dr. Scott Parazinski on my right. On my left is former NASA ISS Lead Flight Surgeon and South Pole Lead Physician Dr. Sean Roden.
Skiier Vlborg Arna Gissurard
The Golf Ball, which houses the GOES and Skynet satellite uplinks. These links provide voice and data access to the station.
The GOES-3 Satellite dish, which is our main communications link to the outside world.
The medical clinic, which features a full trauma bay, dental bay, medical laboratory, exam room, and two ward beds.
As a certified W-EMT, I was a member of the station’s emergency response team. Here, we’re triaging patients during a Mass Casualty Incident training exercise.
On the Pegasus Ice Runway, with Ivan The Terrabus ready to transport people from the ice runway back to McMurdo Station.
On top of Observation Hill, high above McMurdo Station. McMurdo is much much bigger than South Pole Station, and is situated on Ross Island, on the actual ground. South Pole Station is built on top of the polar ice cap.
The Maersk Peary tanker ship, which supplies McMurdo with fuel for the winter season.
Finally leaving the ice on an Air Force C-17 Globemaster III. Read more about my experiences in Antarctica at https://JeffreyDonenfeld.com/Antarctica and contact me at Jeffrey@JeffreyDonenfeld.com .
Since I’ve started blogging about Antarctica, I’ve received a number of questions from readers. To address as many of those questions as possible, I’ve made a long FAQ document. Frequently Asked Questions about Antarctica.
My Job in Antarctica
During my time in Antarctica, I lived at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. The station is American-run, but supports scientists from all over the world. For a bit more on the specifics of the station, check out the Wikipedia Article.
The Amundsen–Scott South Pole Station is an American scientific research station at the Geographic South Pole, the southernmost place on the Earth. The station is located on the high plateau of Antarctica at an elevation of 2,835 meters (9301 feet) above sea level.
…
Since the Amundsen-Scott Station is located at the South Pole, it is at the only place on the land surface of the Earth where the sun is continuously up for six months and then continuously down for six months. (The only other such place is at the North Pole, on the sea ice in the middle of the Arctic Ocean.) Thus, during each year, this station experiences one extremely long “day” and one extremely long “night”. During the six-month “day”, the angle of elevation of the Sun above the horizon varies continuously. The sun rises on the September equinox, reaches its maximum angle above the horizon on the summer solstice in the Southern Hemisphere, around 20 December, and sets on the March equinox.
During the six-month “night”, it gets extremely cold at the South Pole, with air temperatures sometimes dropping below ?73 °C (?100 °F). This is also the time of the year when blizzards, sometimes with gale-force winds, strike the Amundsen-Scott Station. The continuous period of darkness and dry atmosphere make the station an excellent place from which to make astronomical observations.
The number of scientific researchers and members of the support staff housed at the Amundsen-Scott Station has always varied seasonally, with a peak population of about 200 in the summer operational season from October to February. In recent years the wintertime population has been around 50 people.
I was hired to work as a cook at the south pole station. My primary job was as the breakfast cook, and my direct employer was Gan-A-Yoo Services, which is a subcontractor under Lockheed Martin’s Antarctic Support Contract. I got up at 3am 6 mornings per week to single handedly cook breakfast for the entire station staff. For more info on my kitchen job, see my article: Working In The South Pole Kitchen.
I also worked as an emergency medical responder on the station’s “Team 4”, which was in charge of emergency medical response. I worked alongside the fire crew, our nurse, and the station’s lead physician Dr. Sean Roden. More: Team 4 – Emergency Medical Response.
Although long, the journey to and from the south pole was incredible in itself. I flew via commercial air from Denver Colorado > San Francisco California, San Francisco California > Los Angeles California, Los Angeles California > Sydney Australia, Sydney Australia > Christchurch New Zealand. Then on US Air Force Operation Deep Freeze military flights from Christchurch New Zealand > McMurdo Station Antarctica and McMurdo Station Antarctica > South Pole Station Antarctica. The entire journey took a solid three days of travel, but was a spectacular tour. Articles on traveling to and from Antarctica:
[columnize]
Living at a frozen polar station is interesting – super interesting. The entire station is suspended above the ice by pylons, and includes everything we need to survive. In addition to the elevated station, there’s also a labrynth of support corridors and arches buried deep under the ice. I documented as much of the station as I could. First, be sure to watch my South Pole Station Tour Video on YouTube. Additionally, below are links to my writeups on each part of the station.
The primary goal for the South Pole Station is to support scientific research and exploration. There are an incredible amount of world-class science experiments going on there, and since I lived on station, I had the opportunity to explore almost all of them. Living and working with scientists every day led to a continous stream of once-in-a-lifetime conversations about their work, science in general, the universe, etc. Additionally, I spent much of my free time actually helping out a couple of the experiments. Notably, I spent a good amount of time in the field building the drilling rig for the Askaryan Radio Array, and helping out with drilling operations. Check out my time working with ARA. Here’s a collection of content about the science going on at South Pole:
[columnize]
Life at the South Pole is unique, but we still try to keep a bit of a normal life there. This includes celebrating holidays, lots of fun and games, and exploring the unique place we’re in. Notably, I had the opportunity to run the South Pole Marathon while I was there. More about life at the south pole:
[columnize]
On getting a job in Antarctica: Getting my job was hard. Very hard. It took over 4 years of constant research, training, networking, and organizing – and in the end, my job offer came just days before I departed. Definitely a hurculean effort – but after everything, I can truly say that it was absolutely worth the dedication and struggle. Working in Antarctica has been (and hopefully will continue to be) an incredible, life changing experience. If you stay dedicated to it, and make it happen for yourself, it will be an amazing voyage.
If you’re not looking to put in the required effort to land an actual job there, you still have options on getting to the ice. I’d highly recommend looking at Adventure Network International. They run a couple very high quality tours to Antarctica, both to the coast as well as to the South Pole. During my time working at the south pole station, I had the opportunity to give station tours to a bunch of the ALE groups, as well as hang out at their camp. Writeups on tourists and tourism at the south pole:
During my time on the ice, I took over 10,000 photos, and shot hours of video. I shot on three main cameras: My Canon 5Dmk2 w/ EF 24-70 f/2.9L lens, Sony RX100, and Apple iPhone5.
A brief audio recording on my thoughts on Antarctica…
https://www.jeffreydonenfeld.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Jeffrey%20Donenfeld%20on%20Antarctica.m4a
After being sick in Brisbane, Australia for a few days, my cold, and the weather broke for a day and I went out to the Gold Coast with a few friends to attend the Quicksilver Pro 2013 Gold Coast Surfing Championship.
Gold Coast was a fun little surfing strip, with lots of beach bars and cafes, lots of people on the rocks watching the surfing, and an amazing break. Although I didn’t surf myself, it was a good motivation for surfing in Bali this coming week.. standby for that!
Also in Brisbane, I stayed at the Bunk Backpackers, and enjoyed exploring Brisbane’s Chinatown. Australia is expensive, and staying near chinatown was a good way to eat some tasty and inexpensive asian food – although nowhere as tasty and inexpensive as the food I’ve been eating since I’ve been in Indonesia – more on that later.