Jeffrey Donenfeld at the controlboard of 104.5 Ice Radio, McMurdo Station, AntarcticaBelieve it or not, McMurdo Station has its own radio station – 104.5 FM Ice Radio. The station broadcasts with 50 watts around the McMurdo Area, and is able to be heard as far away as Williams Field and Pegasus Airstrip. Additionally, the station is broadcast locally on an AFRTS TV channel.
This evening, I had the opportunity to man the station and bring my radio show, “The Acid Lounge”, back to the airwaves. Here’s a recording of the show, originally broadcast 2014-12-26 on 104.5 FM Ice Radio from McMurdo Station, Antarctica. Notably, the music selection is limited to what’s available on-site, which has been cleared for broadcast. The collection exists on CD, Vinyl, and digitally in a broadcast specific computer system. It seems like the library was last updated a number of years ago, but I still had fun rediscovering some old classics.
Setlist:
Dead Prez – Hip Hop
Notorious Big – Juicy
Outkast – Ms. Jackson
Busta Rhymes – Dangerous
Lauryn Hill – Doo Wop
Jay Z – Change Clothes
Lil Kim – Magic Stick
Wu-Tang – CREAM
50 Cent – PIMP
Beyonce – Me, Myself, and I
George Benson – The Ghetto
Jamiroquai – Everyday
Tribe Called Quest – Stressed Out
Roots – Next Movement
McMurdo’s holiday party this year was fantastic! Including family photos slideshow, multiple bands, beer and wine bars, chillout room, and of course, a santa+elves photobooth.
Weather plays a very important part of our lives in Antarctica, and many operations live by the daily weather forecasts. Although there’s a distinct lack of the latest and greatest weather gear on the ice, met balloons are launched twice a day to help build up the daily weather forecasts. I had the opportunity to assist in inflating and launching one of the balloons.
Inside the McMurdo Baloon Inflation Facility, a large, padded table accomodates the filling balloon, as well as weights to check the lifting power.
Here at McMurdo, we have a number of airfields used for different missions. Willy Field is located on the McMurdo Ice Shelf, and therefore can be used year-round, even when the floating sea ice has melted. Only ski-equipped aircraft land here, including LC-130H, and DHC Twin Otters. Earlier today I took a quick trip out to the airfield, and explored the small town next to the skiway, which provides all of the aircraft, passenger, and crew support facilities.
Antarctica is filled with interesting, fit, adventurous, competitive people – and as a result, there are a bunch of races every year. Last time I was at the South Pole, I ran one big race – the South Pole Marathon. This year, while I was at McMurdo Station waiting for my flight out to WAIS Divide Field Camp, I had the opportunity to run two smaller, but equally interesting races. The Scott Hut 10K, and the Ob Hill Uphill.
Both races were great – and the epic blizzard on the morning of the Ob Hill Uphill made everything a bit more intense.
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Off!
The starting pack of the Scotts Hut 10K. Be bold, start cold!
Final stretch of the Scotts Hut 10K.
Finish!
Final results for Scotts Hut 10K. I finished in 42:36, #9
The Ob Hill Uphill. We start at the base of Observation Hill on the edge of McMurdo, and run to the top. Obviously, it was snowy that day.
Starting up the mountain – it’s a very steep, loose path – and slippery in the snow!
The finishing group at the top of Observation Hill – the wind really whips up there, and it gets cold quickly – especially with light running gear on.
Ob Hill Uphill Race Times. I finished in 6:21, #5. Behind Otto again!
Chanukah is a celebration, no matter where you are. This year at McMurdo, we used “Hut 10”, a special events building, to host a fun Chanukah party. A few pics..
Scott’s Discovery Hut is located on the outskirts of McMurdo Station, and is a short walk from the center of town. A bit of background, and some photos of my recent exploration of the area:
From Wikipedia: Discovery Hut was built by Robert Falcon Scott during the Discovery Expedition of 1901–1904 in 1902 and is located at Hut Point on Ross Island by McMurdo Sound, Antarctica. Visitors to Antarctica, arriving at either the US Base at McMurdo or New Zealand’s Scott Base are likely to encounter Discovery Hut as all three are located on Hut Point. Discovery Hut is just 300m from McMurdo Base. The hut has been designated a Historic Site or Monument (HSM 18), following a proposal by New Zealand and the United Kingdom to the Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting.[1]
Scott’s Discovery Hut, on the tip of Hut Point Penninsula. The mill vans surrounding are part of the Antarctic Heritage Trust, and are working on resoring the hut as well as preserving the contents inside.
Backside of Discovery Hut.
At the tip of Hut Point, seals come onto the surface of the ice through a hole in one of the cracks near shore.
Rollcage Mary, another one of the interesting zones to check out at hut point.
One of the more interesting facilities at McMurdo station is NASA’s NEar Earth Network Ground Station. The facility is comprised of a server and management office in McMurdo proper, as well as a large satellite dish, covered with a radome, on the edge of Arrival Heights, just outside of town. From NASA:
October 3, 2014 – Formerly known as the Ground Network, the Near Earth Network (NEN) provides telemetry, commanding, ground-based tracking, data and communications services to a wide range of customers. The NEN provides these services to customers with satellites in low Earth orbit (LEO), geosynchronous orbit (GEO) highly elliptical orbit, Lunar orbit and missions with multiple frequency bands.
Customers are both national and international, government and commercial entities, NASA (Earth Science, Space Science, and Human Explorations missions) and non-NASA.
The Near Earth Network utilizes both NASA-owned and commercial stations around the world to ensure proper service to customers.
NASA Goddard Space Flight Center in Greenbelt, MD Maryland manages the operations of the Near Earth Network.
Currently, McMurdo Station is hosting a little over 800 people in an industral, dangerous, busy town about as far away from anywhere as you can get. Naturally, with so many people, there’s the occassional sickness and injury. To deal with that, there’s a complete hospital and medical staff waiting to take care of any medical need. Here are a few pics from my recent tour of the McMurdo Station General Hospital…
The outside of the McMurdo Station, Antarctica general hospital. This contains the all of the medical facilities in McMurdo, and is located at the center of town, directly across from main building 155. Also visible is the firehouse just behind to the left.On the back of the hospital is the ambulance loading ramp.Outside of the hospital is a special housing for emergency Mass Casualty gear.In the entrance area, there’s a wall of medical relics from past years in the hospital – interesting to see old field medical gear, and lots of military medical gear.Including a portable field x-ray, seen in the cart on the right.Stock room, with lots of medical supplies.One of the coolest pieces of gear in the hospital is a hyperbaric chamber. This chamber can be used to increase the air pressure for somebody suffering from diving-related decompression illness, altitude related illness, or similar.Looking inside the Hyperbaric chamber, it’s all setup and ready for one person to enter quickly in an emergency.Physical therapy room. Although this room is not completely setup at the moment, it can be reconfigured to a compled PT gym.McMurdo has 6 full hospital beds for extended stays, in addition to four trauma bays. The yellow arrows on the floor point the direction of flow for triage and patient processing during a mass casualty incident where there are more patients than the hospital can normally handle.Ultrasound, and other high tech gear is all available at McMurdo.One of the ward beds – quite a complete setup!The hospital’s break room has all the ammenities needed for long shifts.Although I couldn’t fully access the trauma bay because a patient was occupying one of the beds, here’s a quick shot of one of the corner trauma areas.The station also has dental capabilities, and a dentist stops by the station every season.The pharmacy has just about anything you could need out here.The hospital laboratory, with a complete blood lab.Full digital x-ray capabilities.
The hospital here has already been covered my multiple people – here are a few related writeups and tours of the place:
In McMurdo Sound, the McMurdo Ice Shelf cascades into the sea. pushing and squeezing the frozen sea ice against the hut point peninsula where McMurdo Station and Scott Base are located. This pushing and squeezing of the floating sea ice creates dramatic pressure ridges in the ice, which are beautiful and memorizing to explore. A few nights ago I had the opportunity to walk amongst the pressure ridges and take some pics…
From Wikipedia:
Pressure Ridges – A pressure ridge develops in an ice cover as a result of a stress regime established within the plane of the ice. Within sea ice expanses, pressure ridges originate from the interaction between floes,[note 1] as they collide with each other.[3][4][5][6] Currents and winds are the main driving forces, but the latter are particularly effective when they have a predominant direction.[7] Pressure ridges are made up of angular ice blocks of various sizes that pile up on the floes. The part of the ridge that is above the water surface is known as the sail; that below it as the keel.[note 2] Pressure ridges are the thickest sea ice features and account for about one-half of the total sea ice volume.[2] Stamukhi are pressure ridges that are grounded and that result from the interaction between fast ice and the drifting pack ice.[8][9]
McMurdo Sound – McMurdo Sound and its ice-clogged waters extends about 55 kilometres (34 mi) long and wide. The sound connects the Ross Sea to the north with the Ross Ice Shelf cavity to the south via Haskell Strait. The strait is largely covered by the McMurdo Ice Shelf. The Royal Society Range rises from sea level to 4,205 metres (13,796 ft) on the western shoreline. Ross Island, an historic jumping-off point for polar explorers, designates the eastern boundary. The active volcano Mt Erebus at 3,794 metres (12,448 ft) dominates Ross Island. Antarctica’s largest scientific base, the United States’ McMurdo Station, as well as the New Zealand Scott Base are located on the southern shore of the island. Less than 10 percent of McMurdo Sound’s shoreline is free of ice.[1] It is the southernmost navigable body of water in the world.[2]
Entering the ice ridges on the frozen sea ice of McMurdo Sound. Colored flags mark the way through the ridges, on areas known to be solid. Amongs the ridges are huge cracks in the ice, leading to think ice and the Ross Sea.
Melt Pools form in the low sections of the ridges. It’s in these melt pools that Weddle Seals make holes from the Ross Sea onto the ice. Here you can see two seals hanging out on the ice.
Seals on the Ross Sea ice
Taking pictures of seals, with New Zealand’s Scott Base in the background. Humans aren’t allowed to get much closer to wildlife, and the seals don’t really acknowlage our presence there.
Me, walking through the inter-ridge trough.
Pressure from the McMurdo Ice Shelf pushing the sea ice against the shore of Ross Island is so intense that it pushes the ridges of ice very high in the air – the formations are constantly changing, and always beautiful.
Beautiful structures created in the Ross Sea ice ridges.
Through various freeze/thaw cycles, beautiful patterns emerge in the ice near Scott Base.
Since I’ve been stuck at McMurdo Station, Antarctica for the past week, I’ve had numerous opportunities to shop at the McMurdo General Store. This is the place on station to get gifts, souvineers, clothing, movies, liquor, and just about anything else you could need to feel comfortable. In addition to just providing general goods, interestingly, it seems that the general store and “shopping” experience is a comforting bit of “back in civilization” behavior. I’ve caught both myself and other friends numerous times shopping around in the store, not looking for anything in particular, but just looking around and feeling more at home.
Anyway, here are a few pics of what’s available:
Entrance to the store, with book return! Lots of stickers and patchesLots of electronics and accessoriesNaturally, there must be a chocolate section… And junkfoodDrinks!Additional McMurdo facts
For a bit more context and interest, here’s a few facts and background on McMurdo Station in general1
Foundation and Core Mission: Established in 1955, McMurdo Station was designed from the outset as a critical support and research facility for the United States Antarctic Program (USAP). Its creation marked a significant commitment by the United States to lead and support scientific exploration and research in Antarctica. The station’s strategic location and capabilities have made it an indispensable part of international efforts to study the Antarctic environment, its ecosystems, and its broader implications for global science and climate research (Antarctic Sun) (USAP.gov).
Prime Geographic Positioning: McMurdo is strategically situated on Ross Island, making it an optimal gateway for scientific expeditions to the Antarctic continent and the Southern Ocean. This location provides unique access to key research areas, including the nearby Ross Ice Shelf, the Transantarctic Mountains, and the polar plateau. The station’s proximity to these diverse ecosystems enables a wide range of scientific studies, from ice core analysis to biodiversity assessments (Cool Antarctica) (USAP.gov).
Sustainability and Energy Innovation: In alignment with global efforts towards sustainability, McMurdo has actively sought to reduce its environmental footprint through the adoption of renewable energy sources. The installation of wind turbines on Crater Hill near Ross Island exemplifies this approach. These turbines significantly reduce the station’s reliance on diesel, cutting fuel consumption and carbon emissions. This initiative reflects a broader commitment to environmental stewardship in one of the world’s most pristine and sensitive regions (Wikipedia).
Conservation of Historical Heritage: The area surrounding McMurdo is a living museum of polar exploration history, home to several preserved huts from the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration. These huts, used by explorers such as Robert Falcon Scott and Ernest Shackleton, have been meticulously conserved to serve as a testament to the challenges and triumphs of early explorers. Their preservation underscores the importance of remembering the human endeavor to explore and understand Antarctica (Cool Antarctica).
Marine Science and Diving Research: McMurdo’s scientific diving program has been pioneering in its field, establishing the protocols for safe and effective under-ice diving that have enabled significant advances in marine biological research. The cold, clear waters of the Antarctic provide a unique environment for studying marine life, from microscopic phytoplankton to large marine mammals. The data collected through these dives have contributed to our understanding of how Antarctic marine ecosystems function and their role in the global ocean system (Antarctic Sun).
Dynamic Population Supporting Diverse Research: The station’s ability to support a large seasonal population is a testament to its robust infrastructure and logistics capabilities. During the summer research season, scientists and support staff from around the world converge on McMurdo to undertake a wide array of projects. These projects span the scientific spectrum, including climate science, geology, oceanography, and more, making McMurdo a bustling hub of international research activity (Cool Antarctica) (Antarctic Sun).
Contributions to Global Scientific Knowledge: Research conducted at McMurdo has led to significant contributions to our understanding of global climate systems, Antarctic ecology, and earth sciences. Studies originating from McMurdo have provided insights into historical climate patterns, the dynamics of ice sheets, and the impacts of climate change on polar regions. These contributions are critical for informing global climate policy and conservation efforts (Antarctic Sun).
Facilitator of International Cooperation: McMurdo Station exemplifies the spirit of international cooperation in Antarctica, hosting scientists from various countries and participating in collaborative research projects. This cooperation is facilitated by the Antarctic Treaty System, which governs the peaceful use of Antarctica for scientific research and protects its environment. McMurdo’s role in fostering international collaboration underscores the global importance of Antarctic research (Antarctic Sun).
Technological and Operational Advancements: Over its history, McMurdo has been at the forefront of developing and implementing technologies to withstand and operate in the extreme Antarctic environment. From specialized construction techniques to advanced telecommunications systems, the station continually innovates to support its scientific mission. These advancements not only improve the efficiency and safety of operations but also serve as models for remote and extreme environment operations worldwide (Antarctic Sun) (Cambridge University Press & Assessment).
Rich Community Life Amidst Isolation: Despite the remote and inhospitable setting, McMurdo Station hosts a vibrant community. The station provides a range of recreational activities, cultural events, and educational opportunities for its residents, fostering a sense of community and well-being. This aspect of life at McMurdo highlights the resilience and adaptability of those who live and work in Antarctica, contributing to the station’s unique and enduring legacy (Antarctic Sun) (Cambridge University Press & Assessment).
At McMurdo, lots of people transit though on a daily basis – and not everybody needs everything they brought with them. To effectively recycle unwanted clothing and gear, McMurdo has a bit of a free thrift shop, called Skua. The name comes from the Skua birds that inhabit Ross Island, and frequently scavenge dropped food!
Observation Hill is a small mountain that looms over McMurdo station to the east. It’s a fairly steep, but easy climb, and gives views of the entire surrounding area, including the Long Duration Balloon launch facility on the McMurdo Ice Sheet. During my stay in McMurdo, I hiked it a few times. A few pics from the top:
The view from Observation hill into McMurdo Station, Antarctica. This is most of town, although there are a few other faciliites around the corners.
Looking north from Observation Hill, wind turbines are visible, as well as Mt. Terra Nova on the left and Mt. Terror on the right capped by a lenticular cloud.
Hanging out on the top of Observation hill, awaiting the soon-to-be-cancelled Long Duration Balloon Launch. visible in the background is Mt/. Erebus, as well as the beginning of Mt. Terra Nova.
Despite the time I’ve spent here in Antarctica, up until last week I had never actually seen a penguin. That all changed when I was biking from McMurdo Station across the frozen sea ice out to Willy Field airfield. As I was riding along, I noticed a van of people stopped on the ice looking at something, and went over to check it out. It was a lone Emperor Penguin, straying away from the rest to molt. He was moving fairly quickly over the ice, both sliding on his stomach and walking along. Cute!
A short distance from McMurdo station, on the McMurdo Ice Shelf lies the wreckage of the C-121 Lockheed Constellation “Pegasus”, from which the Pegasus Airfield gets its name. During my stay in McMurdo, I had the opportunity to travel to the resting place of the aircraft to investigate.
On October 8, 1970, the Lockheed Constellation ‘Pegasus’ crashed, due to very low visibility landing conditions. Nobody was hurt or wounded except for the propeller driven airliner built by the Lockheed Corporation. This aircraft was 1 in 856 and powered by 4 18-cylinder radial Wright R-3350 engines and distinguished by a triple-tail design and dolphin-shaped fuselage. This type of plane was the presidential aircraft for U.S. President Dwight D. Eisenhower.
The ice landing strip was then named Pegasus White Ice Runway, and the landing field, Pegasus Field, in honour of the aircraft.
The Pegasus remains there to this day, buried beneath snow and residing alone in this Antarctic Sound. The Lockheed Constellation does get many visitors for a plane in the Antarctic and often gets parts of it dug out for pictures. There are photographs that display the flying orange Pegasus that is detailed on the side of the aircraft, but it must be dug out to be seen.
The remaining tailpiece, with peoples initials carved all over it. The de-icing gear is still there too.
Although most of the plan is under the ice, there’s still a bit to check out, and the skin seems to be in good condition, considering the harsh elements.
A panorama of the resting site
Over the years, the aircraft has been slowly covered in snow and ice.
Hiking across the ice shelf to the crash site of the Pegasus
At McMurdo, the National Science Foundation uses a building called the Chalet as their central offices – this includes office space for the senior representative, high level administrative staff, travel staff, as well as general reception and meeting spaces for science and program related meetings. It’s a beautiful building, and a pleasure to visit. A few photos from a quick exploration of Antarctica’s Chalet.
The deck of the McMurdo Chalet, home of the central NSF Antarctic offices
Upstairs, there’s another conference table.
The Chalet houses the main NSF offices in Antarctica, including Senior United States Representative to Antarctica Pete Ridilla’s office.
Reverse angle of the central space, showing the upstairs balcony.
Inside the Chalet, the central space is used as a meeting and presentation hall, with a lectern and projector screen. There’s also an upstairs balcony for additional seating.
The bust of Richard Evelyn Byrd, Rear Admiral, United States Navy, displayed centrally on the back deck of the chalet. The inscription reads: “I am hopeful that antarctica in its cymbolic robe of white will shine forth as a continent of peas as nations working together there in the cause of science set an example of international cooperation. To all who follow in admiral byrd’s footsteps this monument is dedicated. – National Geographic Society”
The plaque commemorating Operation Deep Freeze, on the back deck of the Chalet
The chalet is located on the corner of town, with easy access from the center of town, and a stunning view to McMurdo sound off the back deck. Unlike the industrial architecture of most buildings at McMurdo, the chalet has a style of its own.
In preparation for departure to the ice, United States Antarctic Program members receive standard issue Antarctic Extreme Cold Weather Gear. This year, since I’m deploying to a remote field camp, I was issued a bit more specialzed gear. This was the first of many gear issues for my team as we gear up for deployment to Western Antarctica, and our main to-do item during our time in Christchurch, New Zealand.
Entering the Clothing Distibuton Center in Christchurch, New Zealand. It’s here we receive our Extreme Cold Weather gear issue, as well as go through basic briefing for our upcoming travel.
United States Antarctic Program standard issue Extreme Cold Weather gear issue, laid out for explanation.
United States Antarctic Program standard issue Extreme Cold Weather gear issue, laid out for explanation. The white boots are called “bunny boots”.
These orange bags are called “boomerang bags”, and are used for gear storage, checkin bags, as well as carry on bags. In Antarctica they’re used for just about everything, since everybody is issued at least two.
Gear storage for more ECW.
A bit of my ECW gear, laid out
My gear issue list, with a few additions for living in the deep field at WAIS Divide.
Me trying on my Canada Goose brand “Big Red” standard issue parka. Each parka has an official program patch, as well as a nametag.
Exploring the offices of the International Antarctic Centre
In addition to the Clothing Distribution Center, the International Antarctic Centre also houses an Antarctica museum. Entering the museum, as a workign member of the actual real life program, is a bit surreal – the exact gear we’re using is put on display as musuem exhibits, and there’a gift shop selling toy-versions of a lot of our field equiptment.
For the past week, I’ve been working with my team at McMurdo Station, Antarctica. We’re running around town gearing up for our upcoming field expedition to WAIS Divide, Western Antarctica. In addition to our briefings and gear organization, McMurdo has a ton of great stuff to do! Here’s a quick pick taken while exploring the Sea Ice Pressure Ridges outside of New Zealand’s Scott Base. The sea ice gets squeezed into the shore by the advancing continental ice shelf, and as a result these massive ridges of ice push up. A truly dramatic place. In the background, you can see the ice-less Castle Rock, with Mt. Terra Nova to the right.
More updates soon..
Jeffrey Donenfeld exploring the Sea Ice Pressure Ridges surrounding Scott Base, Antarctica
Just over the hill from US-run McMurdo Station is New Zealand’s Scott Base, part of the New Zealand Antarctic Programme. The base serves as the center of New Zealand’s Antarctic Operations, and is a pleasure to visit. Every Thursday night, Scott Base’s bar, “The Tatty Flag” hosts USAP participants for “American Night”. Shuttles from McMurdo run regularly, and the bar fills up. It’s always a great time, and a fantastic opportunity to meet Kiwi Antarctic scientists and support workers, as well as check out a few of the facilities.
Hiking up to Scott Base after hiking through the ice pressure ridges on the Ross Ice Shelf.
Just over the hill from McMurdo Station, Scott Base is New Zealand’s base. It’s quite a bit smaller than McMurdo, but still seems comfortable. All of the buildings are painted the same color green. Every Thursday the base hosts crew from McMurdo in their bar, for “American Night”.
Entering the main quad of Scott Base, the main administration building is on the right, and flagpole/placemarker straight ahead. To the left is the Ross Sea and McMurdo Sound.
The traditional Scott Base placemarker, with Kiwi flag flying in the background…
Many of the buildings at Scott Base are connected by enclosed hallways like these – no need to put your jacket on or go outside to walk between buildings!
The entrance to the Tatty Flag
Having drinks at The Tatty Flag with old friend Ben Rotter.
Inside “The Tatty Flag”, the bar at Scott Base.
At Scott Base, they have a credit card reader which does “Visa Paywave” and other contactless payments – including working with Apple Pay. I did this Apple Pay transaction on 2014-12-10, and the guy who worked in the store that season said that he had never seen an Apple Pay transaction in their shop yet – so that makes me believe that this is the very first Antarctic Apple Pay transaction.. cool!
At Scott Base, they have a credit card reader which does “Visa Paywave” and other contactless payments – including working with Apple Pay. I did this Apple Pay transaction on 2014-12-10, and the guy who worked in the store that season said that he had never seen an Apple Pay transaction in their shop yet – so that makes me believe that this is the very first Antarctic Apple Pay transaction.. cool!
Exiting the main admin building at Scott Base with my nifty Betabrand Space Jacket.
The final stage of gear preparation for living at Antarctic field camp is preparing the field-specific gear and machines. During the first week at McMurdo, my team and I went through a number of issues, classes, and trainings to get fully ready for deployment to field camp. A few photos from the process:
During my time waiting at McMurdo, I volunteered quite a bit at the Berg FIeld Center – here, I’m checking out GPS units and certifying them to be used in the field.
Going over the basics of setting up both our main tents, as well as the tents contained in deep field survival bags, which are supplied on aircraft and as backups at field camp.
Part of preparation for field camp is learning how to drive, and maintain snowmobiles. Here, we’re going through a quick overview of how the engine works.
Our on-ice checkout of the snowmobiles, to make sure we’re comfortable riding and operating.
Testing snowmobiles – fun!
Most science teams have their own dedicated Iridium Satellite Phone. It’s quite convenient, and in Antarctica the connection is great.
At the Berg Field Center, we go over our field camp gear list.
Each group gets their own locker in McMurdo, for staging and storing gear during the preparation interval. We were at McMurdo for a month, so it was good that we had a dedicated place to store our gear as it waited for shipment to field camp.
Going through our racks of gear in the cage. You can see sleeping bags, pads, boomerang bags, cots, emergency bags, and all sorts of other supplies.
Extreme cold sleeping bags at the BFC.
Ice gear
Kaleigh helping out with some cots at the BFC
An arctic oven, the tents we slept in at field camp. this is what the internal layer looks like – an exterior shell goes over the top.
Basic field survival classes are required for everybody – even the Antarctic veterans!
Going through the checkout process for our flexible plastic gear sleds, which we tow behind snowmobiles. They’re used for hauling gear, as well as people. TIed to the sled, we have a bunch of bamboo and nylon flags, which we use for marking locations in the snow, such as the edge of the snow ramp to the drill arch.
During transit to Antarctica, I had a brief afternoon of free time in Christchurch, New Zealand. Amidst a few errands, here are three shots taken from around town:
The central church, with repairs ongoing.
Christchurch started recovery from their recent earthquake quickly, including by building a mall out of shipping containers. It’s actually pretty cool!
Although it’s been moved a few times, the dance-o-mat is still there.
As I write this, I’m en-route to work for a season at the West Antarctic Ice Sheet Field Camp, Antarctica. This will be my second season working on the ice, and first time working at a remote field camp. My first deployment was to the heated, enclosed South Pole Station. This time I’ll be living in a tent at a remote field camp.
Gearing up and packing for this season’s deployment were similar, but a bit more complex. Gear planning this time is multi-staged. I packed simultaneously for a two week guiding gig in Israel, my main deployment to Antarctica, and then subsequent backpack travel through Asia, Russia, and Europe. Each leg of my journey requires slightly different gear, but many element of each kit are shared and related.
To support my packing and planning, I assembled a fairly comprehensive gear spreadsheet. I put together this master packing list from a variety of sources – the USAP-supplied recommended gear list, job-specific packing list, my own personal gear list, as well as a few other sources. Once my list was assembled, I did a bit of editing and streamlining, and then got to work researching and putting together all of the gear.
Each item on my list went through a few stages – determining that I needed that piece of gear, then researching exactly the product I needed, locating it, and then testing it, and “staging” it in my packing area. The “S” in my list means that I had the piece of gear, and it had been placed in my staging area, ensuring that I knew where it was, and that it was ready to be packed.
Then, the morning of my departure, I packed everything up and left. In retrospect, it would have been nice to do a test run of packing everything up. Although my gear comes in at 60lbs (one 45lb duffle, one 15lb backpack), which is about half of my gear weight allowance, I still feel like I’m taking a little too much – however there’s some sponsored gear that I’m taking, and a few “creature comforts” that I’m hoping will make life in a tent on the ice more livable – namely a crazy-creek style camping chair, UE Boom bluetooth speaker, down booties, and a few other comfy items.
So, for your interest, here’s my full packing list, as well as a few pics of the gear all laid out.
Coming up, I’ll be going through Extreme Cold Weather Gear Issue in Christchurch, New Zealand, and then another deep field expedition gear issue at the Berg Field Center at McMurdo Station, Antarctica. Stay tuned for those reports.
Finally, the time has come – I’m departing to Antarctica, for my second deployment to the ice. I’m extremely excited about getting back to work on another great project, and am looking forward to meeting my new work crew, and to working on the IDDO DISC Drill at the West Antarctic Ice Sheet Field Camp.
Getting there isn’t easy though – I’ll be traveling for the next few days, and will hopefully make it to my final spot in about a week. Here’s a brief overview of my travel to the ice:
Dec 5 – Fly Denver, Colorado to Los Angeles, California on commercial air – American Airlines
Dec 5 – 7 – Fly Los Angeles, California to Sydney, Australia on commercial air – Quantas Airlines
Dec 7 – Fly Sydney, Australia to Christchurch, New Zealand on commercial air – Emirates Airlines
Dec 7 – 9 – Stag in Christchurch, New Zealand. Go though Extreme Cold Weather Gear issue, introductions, hopefully have some free time to explore more of Christchurch
Dec 9 – Fly Christchurch, New Zealand to McMurdo Station, Antarctica on US Military – Air Force Operation Deep Freeze on a LC-130 Hercules
Dec 9 – ? – Spend a good amount of time in McMurdo Station, Antarctica gearing up with deep field expedition gear, go through lots of polar field survival training, go through work gear, meet crew.
Dec 12 or so – Fly McMurdo Station, Antarctica to West Antarctic Ice Sheet Field Camp on US Air Force LC-130 Hercules
Dec 12 0r so – Finally arrive at my final location, and maybe get some sleep, and then finally GET TO WORK!!!
Hopping on my LAX>SYD flight now. Cheers!
Departing Denver, Colorado en route to the West Antarctic Ice Sheet Field Camp, Antarctica
Update 2014-12-09
After two days in Christchurch, New Zealand and a bit of gear issue, the next leg of the journey is complete – this morning I flew from Christchurch, New Zealand to McMurdo Station, Antarctica aboard an LC-130 Hercules. A few pics:
First task of the morning – putting on ECW Gear.
First task of the morning – putting on ECW Gear.
Checking into the passenger side of the International Antarctic Centre facility. Like any other flight, we go through standard security procedure, which includes verifying identity with Passport, metal detector, xray machine, etc. Additionally, all bags are weighed, including carryon.
Best airport shuttle ever!
Since the LC-130 is LOUD when it starts up, safety briefing takes place outside of the airplane. Oxygen masks are a bit different on this aircraft, and consist of a chemical oxygen generator coupled to a full-head hood. Much like an emergency fire escape hood.
Onboard, I sat with polie friend Chris K.
Inside, we sit sideways, with a few people in a the middle section. Seating is tight, especially with everybody’s gear – but not horribly uncomfortable.
In addition to medical kits, there are also a few survival kits stashed around the plane.
No food cart, but we do get brown bag lunches onboard, including super cute Penguin chips! Sorry, no BBQ flavor. ;)
Sign marking our pallate of gear.
While we’re in mid-flight, it’s ok to go visit the cockpit – super cool!
Passing over the seasonally frozen southern ocean, with cracks forming in mid-summer. The ice cover is absolutely beautiful, and takes on infinite forms.
Massive peaks of the Trans-Antarctic Mountains poke out of the polar ice cap. Beautiful.
Another one of the many many forms of sea ice.
Stepping out of the Herc at Willy’s Field ice runway.
In addition to USAP members, we also flew with a bit of the crew of New Zealand’s Scott Base, which is just over the hill from McMurdo on Ross Island.
A delta, and Antarctic airport shuttle, essentially.
First things first in McMurdo – a briefing about briefings.
Update 2015-03-04
At long last, here’s video of the flights from Christchurch to WAIS.
