Jeffrey Donenfeld

Tag: Asia

  • Why Staying in Hostels While Traveling Solo Is Great

    Why Staying in Hostels While Traveling Solo Is Great

    Earlier this year, while I was traveling through Beijing, China, I stayed in Leo Hostel. During my short stay there, I was interviewed by a Chinese school group producing a short segment about travel in China. In the segment, I speak a little about my travel experiences, and why I think it’s a great idea to stay in hostels while traveling solo.

    In short, staying in hostels is cheap, and gives you great opportunities for meeting new people, joining interesting tour groups, and enriching your travel experience overall.

    Here’s the segment on YouTube.

     

  • Finding Community in China’s Capital – Beijing

    Finding Community in China’s Capital – Beijing

    The Kehillat Beijing Jewish Community, in the Forbidden City, Beijing, circa 1999.
    The Kehillat Beijing Jewish Community, in the Forbidden City, Beijing, circa 1999.
    My first stop in China was the capital city, Beijing. Visiting China was a big moment for me – it’s size, population, and ever increasing role in global affairs make it a force to reckon with. I felt like it was essential to give a good chunk of time to develop an understanding at a basic level at least of China. I wanted to understand the people, the politics, the industry, and the culture.

    Coming from South Korea, a flight into Beijing was the logical first step. Additionally, this put me in a good position to visit North Korea in the coming weeks. I ended up staying at combination of CS Friends places and hostels, in a number of different neighborhoods.

    I split my time in Beijing between training lightly for the upcoming Pyongyang Marathon, shopping and exploring “modern” beijing, and checking off most of the major tourist attractions. I was in Beijing for Passover, and had the good fortune of connecting with the Kehillat Beijing Jewish Community group for two very very awesome Seders, as well as good new friends. Connecting with the Jewish community in Beijing made me feel so much more at home, and inspired that communities like this exist around the world. My people! :)

  • Exploring A Shield Volcano – Jeju Island, South Korea

    Exploring A Shield Volcano – Jeju Island, South Korea

    Jeju Placement MapJeju Island, located off the tip of South Korea, is a paradise for geologists, honeymooners, and adventurers alike. I ventured to Jeju on a recommendation from a friend, as well as seeing the epic pictures of the Seongsan Ilchulbong. Jeju is a geological paradise, with interesting volcanic features such as Mt. Hallasan, an almost perfect Shield Volcanos, great examples of parasitic volcanos, the almost perfect Seongsan Ilchulbong Tuff Cone, and the largest lava tubes in the world.

    In addition to exploring the geology, I also did a bit of adventuring and sightseeing. I had a great time exploring the markets and massive underground mall in the main city of Jeju, got lost for an afternoon in a fun hedge maze, and enjoyed lots of fried chicken and beer with the local gang of korean kids staying with me in the hostel.

    Jeju should certainly be on a “must-see” list for a complete Korea vacation – but four or five days is definitely enough. Transportation around Jeju was easy – busses run around the entire island, and they’re quick and easy to find.

    Wikipedia: Jeju Province (officially the Jeju Special Autonomous Province[1]) is one of the nine provinces of South Korea. The province is situated on and coterminous with the nation's largest island of Jeju (also Jejudo), formerly transliterated as Cheju, Cheju Do, etc., or known as Quelpart to Europeans. The island lies in the Korea Strait, southwest of South Jeolla Province, of which it was a part before it became a separate province in 1946. Its capital is Jeju City.
    Wikipedia: Jeju Province (officially the Jeju Special Autonomous Province[1]) is one of the nine provinces of South Korea. The province is situated on and coterminous with the nation’s largest island of Jeju (also Jejudo), formerly transliterated as Cheju, Cheju Do, etc., or known as Quelpart to Europeans. The island lies in the Korea Strait, southwest of South Jeolla Province, of which it was a part before it became a separate province in 1946. Its capital is Jeju City.
    Silver fish dominate the fish portion of the Jeju Fish Market.
    Silver fish dominate the fish portion of the Jeju Fish Market.
    Jeju Island is known for its amazing citrus crop, and in the markets vendors display some of the most beautiful citrus I've seen.
    Jeju Island is known for its amazing citrus crop, and in the markets vendors display some of the most beautiful citrus I’ve seen.
    Koreans very much love the Fried Chicken and Beer. More than once, people invited me to have friend chicken and beer with them, and there are fried chicken and beer shops all over korea. It's a simple, tasty, but rather unhealthy meal. Still great fun! This Hite beer we were drinking comes in big 2L bottles
    Koreans very much love the Fried Chicken and Beer. More than once, people invited me to have friend chicken and beer with them, and there are fried chicken and beer shops all over korea. It’s a simple, tasty, but rather unhealthy meal. Still great fun! This Hite beer we were drinking comes in big 2L bottles
    Hiking up Mt. Halasan, the well-worn trail gives way to slick snow on the higher half of the mountain. Avid Korean hikers are quick to strap on metal mesh grips to their hiking shoes in order to navigate the snowpack.
    Hiking up Mt. Halasan, the well-worn trail gives way to slick snow on the higher half of the mountain. Avid Korean hikers are quick to strap on metal mesh grips to their hiking shoes in order to navigate the snowpack.
    Parasitic volcanos dot the Jejuan landscape all the way to the water's edge.
    Parasitic volcanos dot the Jejuan landscape all the way to the water’s edge.
    The top of Mt. Halasan.
    The top of Mt. Halasan.
    Hiking down into the forest. Fog blanketed Jeju Island frequently during my visit, and gave the whole place a sense of wonder. Very cool!
    Hiking down into the forest. Fog blanketed Jeju Island frequently during my visit, and gave the whole place a sense of wonder. Very cool!
    The entrance to the Manjanggul Cave lava tube, one of the largest lava tubes in the world. Although well developed and visited frequently, descending into the tube felt a bit like entering the tubular temple complex from the movie "Promethius".
    The entrance to the Manjanggul Cave lava tube, one of the largest lava tubes in the world. Although well developed and visited frequently, descending into the tube felt a bit like entering the tubular temple complex from the movie “Promethius”.
    Lots of attractions on Jeju are ideally suited for couples, including the Gimnyeong Maze Park. A hedge maze!
    Lots of attractions on Jeju are ideally suited for couples, including the Gimnyeong Maze Park. A hedge maze!
    Making it to the end of Gimnyeong Maze Park, Jeju
    Making it to the end of Gimnyeong Maze Park, Jeju
    Inside the lava tube, LED lights illuminate the various formations. Walking the 1km through the opened section is easy - the floor is almost perfectly flat, thanks to gravity and cooling liquid lava.
    Inside the lava tube, LED lights illuminate the various formations. Walking the 1km through the opened section is easy – the floor is almost perfectly flat, thanks to gravity and cooling liquid lava.
    Exploring deeper into the cave. The entire accessible portion is about 1km long.
    Exploring deeper into the cave. The entire accessible portion is about 1km long.
    The texture of the walls changes dramatically.
    The texture of the walls changes dramatically.
    The cave is truly amazing. From UNESCO: "The Geomunoreum lava tube system, which is regarded as the finest such cave system in the world, has an outstanding visual impact even for those experienced with such phenomena. It displays the unique spectacle of multi-coloured carbonate decorations adorning the roofs and floors, and dark-coloured lava walls, partially covered by a mural of carbonate deposits. The fortress-like Seongsan Ilchulbong tuff cone, with its walls rising out of the ocean, is a dramatic landscape feature, and Mount Halla, with its array of textures and colours through the changing seasons, waterfalls, display of multi-shaped rock formations and columnar-jointed cliffs, and the towering summit with its lake-filled crater, further adds to the scenic and aesthetic appeal."
    The cave is truly amazing. From UNESCO: “The Geomunoreum lava tube system, which is regarded as the finest such cave system in the world, has an outstanding visual impact even for those experienced with such phenomena. It displays the unique spectacle of multi-coloured carbonate decorations adorning the roofs and floors, and dark-coloured lava walls, partially covered by a mural of carbonate deposits. The fortress-like Seongsan Ilchulbong tuff cone, with its walls rising out of the ocean, is a dramatic landscape feature, and Mount Halla, with its array of textures and colours through the changing seasons, waterfalls, display of multi-shaped rock formations and columnar-jointed cliffs, and the towering summit with its lake-filled crater, further adds to the scenic and aesthetic appeal.”
    Sunset from the foot of the Seongsan Ilchulbong.
    Sunset from the foot of the Seongsan Ilchulbong.
    Taking the ferry to Udo Island, a quick 15 minute ferry ride.
    Taking the ferry to Udo Island, a quick 15 minute ferry ride.
    A lighthouse on the way to Udo Island
    A lighthouse on the way to Udo Island
    Sea Urchins!
    Sea Urchins!

    DSC01256-2015-03-28 Jeju-Donenfeld-1920-WM

    I woke up on my final morning in Jeju excited to witness the sunrise at the Seongsan Ilchulbong. However, after arriving at 5am, and patiently waiting for the sun to appear - nothing happened. The entire formation was socked in by heavy fog. This was the best pic I could get - of the empty viewing deck!
    I woke up on my final morning in Jeju excited to witness the sunrise at the Seongsan Ilchulbong. However, after arriving at 5am, and patiently waiting for the sun to appear – nothing happened. The entire formation was socked in by heavy fog. This was the best pic I could get – of the empty viewing deck!
    Descending the steps from the viewing deck of the Seongsan Ilchulbong. Dissapointed, but still had a good early morning hike.
    Descending the steps from the viewing deck of the Seongsan Ilchulbong. Dissapointed, but still had a good early morning hike.
    The outside of the Seongsan Ilchulbong formation.
    The outside of the Seongsan Ilchulbong formation.
  • Exploring Manila, El Nido, and Coron, Philippines

    Exploring Manila, El Nido, and Coron, Philippines

    After an excellent season on the ice this year, my first travel stop was in the Phillipines to relax with dear friends Brad and Talitha.

    The Mall of Asia – a combination of indoor and outdoor mall stores, as well as a few department stores, and lots of food stands. I bought my Seiko SKX009K2 here.
    The local welcoming committee, waiting for us in the passenger terminal.
    I stayed at the Islandfront Hotel, with a great spot on the beach. This is my sunset perch almost every night – beautiful!
    The dramatic walk into our favourite bar in El Nido, “La Plage”. The swaying palm trees at dusk are dramatic and beautiful.
    Hiking through the jungle to a less than inspiring waterfall – we still had a great hike!
    Passing through local villages as we discover waterfalls, jungle farmlands, and hidden beaches.
    Brad and Talitha strolling on local beach at sundown. The small waves were perfect for bodysurfing.
    Sunset in El Nido, with outrigger dive boats anchored in the shallows.
    The tides in Palawan Island are dramatic, and the area outside of where we were staying drained completely during low tide.
    Ready for a day of sailing!
    The Filipino Navy, patroling the waters around El Nido.
    Discovering abandoned religious statues at an abandoned jungle convent.
    Dramatic tides give way to hidden beaches in the inlets.
    We got around almost everywhere via Trike.
    The cutest little girl ever, riding with her father as he biked us around El Nido.
    We had a threesome Valentines Day dinner at a local resort, with ah complete buffet in the jungle clearning.
    Brad and Talitha play the dating game on valentines day.
    Best couple ever!
    Launching heart shaped hot air balloons – sort of. This one burnt up on the ground shortly after this picture was taken – but Brad and Talitha soar! :)
    Fish at the local market
    Fish at the local market
    In Coron, we dove with Neptune Dive Center, which was great. Highly recommended!
    Our divemaster on the bow of the dive boat. Dive boats in the Philippines are typical double-outrigger boats.
    Departing Coron for Manila, and then on to Japan .
    Local kids playing on a dry docked boat on the beach.
    During our day tour of the local area, we docked at an abandoned convent.
    Small fish swim in the shallow tidal pools of the hidden coves in El NIdo.
    One of the hidden beaches – this beach is only accessible by swimming through a small underwater tunnel.
    Discovering yet another hidden beach – this one accessible through a hole in the rocks, dry during low tide.
    Triking around Coron.
    Checking out the hot springs in Coron. These geothermally heated waters spill from the pools directly into the ocean.
    An incredible amount of fish swim on a the wreck of a Japanese battleship in Coron, Philippines.
    Ending a great dive in Coron.
    Diving in Coron.
    After a day of diving, we decided to get some fresh air on the jeepney ride back to town.
    Getting ready to dive Barracuda Lake, Philippines.
    Tracing the wall around Baraccuda Lake, in the middle-layer of water.
    Me descending into the hot, salty bottom layer of water in Baraccuda Lake. You can see the visual distortion of the hot water I’m descending into.
    We had a great dive!
    Talitha and I charterd a small hobie cat sailboat – fun sailing for an hour or two.
    Naturally, we had to relax in the pool at the Mahogany Resort, where Brad and Talitha were staying.
    In Manilla, I used the cemetery in the center of town as a running track, to train for the upcoming Tokyo Marathon. Running through the cemetery was interesting – people seem to have moved into the space, creating a shanty town between the graves.
    Downtown Manila. I stayed at a hotel in Makati, which was interesting enough for four days. Manila is a huge, congested city, and Makati provided a good amount of walkable entertainment.
    Inside the Greenbelt Shopping Center in Manila, the nose and dirt of the street fades away into a tranquil koi pond. Manila has a ton of shopping centers – some nicer than others.
    At the newly-opened City of Dreams Manila, I played a few rounds of Baccara, and then checked out an amazing cover band playing in the middle of the casino. Cover bands are hugely poplular in the Philippines, and they’re very talented and precise.
    Brad, Talitha, and I flew from Manila to El Nido, Palawan on a charters ATR-72 with ITI Air, booked by El Nido Boutique & Artcaf
    Trikes are huge in Palawan – in El Nido they seemed to be hand-built and somewhat rickety – but they got the job done.

    I started my journey by flying Sydney>Manila. Once in Manila, I had a solid four days of time to myself to explore Manila. I stayed in the Makati area, at a mid-range hotel. I split my time between training for the upcoming Tokyo Marathon, exploring various parts of Manila, and beginning the process of wrapping up the antarctic season.

    Overall, Manila was an interesting, although not overly majestic experience. The city is a massive sprawl. Giant, modern skyscrapers are intermingled with small shanty towns. The city grid is cut up by winding alleys and backstreets. Large, free-flowing avenues are rudely interrupted by snarled traffic jams, and a constant flow of jeepneys, busses, and motorbikes. People are everywhere, doing everything.

    I entered Manila without much of a plan, and was fairly overwhelmed – but ended up having a great time, and getting into the vibe of the capital city. As a word of advice for future travelers – Manila is definitely worth seeing in order to understand the city-dwelling style of the Philippines, but before you go, establish a good plan of what you want to see. Get it and get out – it’s intense. I spent four days there, but could have done with three.

    Downtown Manila. I stayed at a hotel in Makati, which was interesting enough for four days. Manila is a huge, congested city, and Makati provided a good amount of walkable entertainment.
    Downtown Manila. I stayed at a hotel in Makati, which was interesting enough for four days. Manila is a huge, congested city, and Makati provided a good amount of walkable entertainment.
    In Manilla, I used the cemetery in the center of town as a running track, to train for the upcoming Tokyo Marathon. Running through the cemetery was interesting - people seem to have moved into the space, creating a shanty town between the graves.
    In Manilla, I used the cemetery in the center of town as a running track, to train for the upcoming Tokyo Marathon. Running through the cemetery was interesting – people seem to have moved into the space, creating a shanty town between the graves.
    The Mall of Asia - a combination of indoor and outdoor mall stores, as well as a few department stores, and lots of food stands. I bought my Seiko SKX009K2 here.
    The Mall of Asia – a combination of indoor and outdoor mall stores, as well as a few department stores, and lots of food stands. I bought my Seiko SKX009K2 here.
    Inside the Greenbelt Shopping Center in Manila, the nose and dirt of the street fades away into a tranquil koi pond. Manila has a ton of shopping centers - some nicer than others.
    Inside the Greenbelt Shopping Center in Manila, the nose and dirt of the street fades away into a tranquil koi pond. Manila has a ton of shopping centers – some nicer than others.
    At the newly-opened City of Dreams Manila, I played a few rounds of Baccara, and then checked out an amazing cover band playing in the middle of the casino. Cover bands are hugely poplular in the Philippines, and they're very talented and precise.
    At the newly-opened City of Dreams Manila, I played a few rounds of Baccara, and then checked out an amazing cover band playing in the middle of the casino. Cover bands are hugely poplular in the Philippines, and they’re very talented and precise.

    After four days in Manila, Brad and Talitha flew in, and I met up with them at the airport. Flights from Manila to Puerto Princessa, the main town in Palawan, are cheap and easy – however since we were on our way to El Nido, it would have required an additional 5 hour bus ride from Puerto Princesa to El Nido. Instead, we decided to join a charter air flight operated by ITI directly from Manila to El Nido.

    In El Nido, I stayed at a mid-range hotel on the beach called Islandfront, and B&T stayed at the newly opened Mahogany Resort, just down the road. Both places were excellent. B&T spent the week in El Nido training for their PADI Open Water SCUBA Certification. I spent my days running, swimming, sailing, and relaxing on the beach. We got together every night, as well as did a few day trips together.

    El Nido was wonderful and beautiful. It’s relatively un-developed compared to other towns in Palawan, but has a certain charm to it. Unfortunately, I felt like certain essential aspects – connectivity, dining options, and staff training were a bit lacking, even given the somewhat remote location. For me, I felt like it simply didn’t have quite enough charm to make up for it’s backwoods, 3rd world location. I wouldn’t go back to El Nido, but I did have an excellent time there – especially with the two best travel buddies ever!

    Brad, Talitha, and I flew from Manila to El Nido, Palawan on a charters ATR-72 with ITI Air, booked by El Nido Boutique & Artcafé. The flight was perfectly comfortable, and upon landing, the airplane was simple shut down on the uncontroled landing strip, and we all loaded onto a Jeepney for transport off the runway to the passenger terminal.
    Brad, Talitha, and I flew from Manila to El Nido, Palawan on a charters ATR-72 with ITI Air, booked by El Nido Boutique & Artcafé. The flight was perfectly comfortable, and upon landing, the airplane was simple shut down on the uncontroled landing strip, and we all loaded onto a Jeepney for transport off the runway to the passenger terminal.
    The local welcoming committee, waiting for us in the passenger terminal.
    The local welcoming committee, waiting for us in the passenger terminal.
    Trikes are huge in Palawan - in El Nido they seemed to be hand-built and somewhat rickety - but they got the job done.
    Trikes are huge in Palawan – in El Nido they seemed to be hand-built and somewhat rickety – but they got the job done.
    We got around almost everywhere via Trike.
    We got around almost everywhere via Trike.
    I stayed at the Islandfront Hotel, with a great spot on the beach. This is my sunset perch almost every night - beautiful!
    I stayed at the Islandfront Hotel, with a great spot on the beach. This is my sunset perch almost every night – beautiful!
    The dramatic walk into our favourite bar in El Nido, "La Plage". The swaying palm trees at dusk are dramatic and beautiful.
    The dramatic walk into our favourite bar in El Nido, “La Plage”. The swaying palm trees at dusk are dramatic and beautiful.
    The cutest little girl ever, riding with her father as he biked us around El Nido.
    The cutest little girl ever, riding with her father as he biked us around El Nido.
    Launching heart shaped hot air balloons - sort of. This one burnt up on the ground shortly after this picture was taken - but Brad and Talitha soar! :)
    Launching heart shaped hot air balloons – sort of. This one burnt up on the ground shortly after this picture was taken – but Brad and Talitha soar! :)
    We had a threesome Valentines Day dinner at a local resort, with ah complete buffet in the jungle clearning.
    We had a threesome Valentines Day dinner at a local resort, with ah complete buffet in the jungle clearning.
    Brad and Talitha play the dating game on valentines day.
    Brad and Talitha play the dating game on valentines day.
    Best couple ever!
    Best couple ever!
    Ready for a day of sailing!
    Ready for a day of sailing!
    During our day tour of the local area, we docked at an abandoned convent.
    During our day tour of the local area, we docked at an abandoned convent.
    Discovering abandoned religious statues at an abandoned jungle convent.
    Discovering abandoned religious statues at an abandoned jungle convent.
    Dramatic tides give way to hidden beaches in the inlets.
    Dramatic tides give way to hidden beaches in the inlets.
    Discovering yet another hidden beach - this one accessible through a hole in the rocks, dry during low tide.
    Discovering yet another hidden beach – this one accessible through a hole in the rocks, dry during low tide.
    One of the hidden beaches - this beach is only accessible by swimming through a small underwater tunnel.
    One of the hidden beaches – this beach is only accessible by swimming through a small underwater tunnel.
    Small fish swim in the shallow tidal pools of the hidden coves in El NIdo.
    Small fish swim in the shallow tidal pools of the hidden coves in El NIdo.
    The Filipino Navy, patroling the waters around El Nido.
    The Filipino Navy, patroling the waters around El Nido.
    Hiking through the jungle to a less than inspiring waterfall - we still had a great hike!
    Hiking through the jungle to a less than inspiring waterfall – we still had a great hike!
    Brad and Talitha strolling on local beach at sundown. The small waves were perfect for bodysurfing.
    Brad and Talitha strolling on local beach at sundown. The small waves were perfect for bodysurfing.
    Local kids playing on a dry docked boat on the beach.
    Local kids playing on a dry docked boat on the beach.
    Naturally, we had to relax in the pool at the Mahogany Resort, where Brad and Talitha were staying.
    Naturally, we had to relax in the pool at the Mahogany Resort, where Brad and Talitha were staying.
    Sunset in El Nido, with outrigger dive boats anchored in the shallows.
    Sunset in El Nido, with outrigger dive boats anchored in the shallows.
    Talitha and I charterd a small hobie cat sailboat - fun sailing for an hour or two.
    Talitha and I charterd a small hobie cat sailboat – fun sailing for an hour or two.
    DSC04095-2015-02-14 Philippines-Donenfeld-1920-WM
    Passing through local villages as we discover waterfalls, jungle farmlands, and hidden beaches.
    Passing through local villages as we discover waterfalls, jungle farmlands, and hidden beaches.
    The tides in Palawan Island are dramatic, and the area outside of where we were staying drained completely during low tide.
    The tides in Palawan Island are dramatic, and the area outside of where we were staying drained completely during low tide.

    Our final stop was in Coron. This small town is a bit closer in to Manila, and is a hub for tourism and scuba diving. The main draw of Coron is wreck diving on the multitude of Japanese military shipwrecks – the aftermath of an ambush by the USA during WW2.

    In Coron, we stayed at the Coron Ecolodge, and dove with Neptune Dive Center. In Coron, we enjoyed boat trips, tasty dinners, views from the top of the mountain, massages, and lots of cafe sessions.

    Barracuda Lake Diagram, from AsiaDiveSite.com
    Barracuda Lake Diagram, from AsiaDiveSite.com

    By far the best dive of the week wasn’t a wreck dive. It was a lake dive, in Barracuda Lake. Barracuda lake is a brackish lake that’s unique for it’s geothermally heated layers of water, with extremely dramatic thermoclines. The most interesting part of the dive was transition between layers of water, and seeing the shimmering boundaries of each layer approaching, and then traveling between the layers.

    In Coron, we dove with Neptune Dive Center, which was great. Highly recommended!
    In Coron, we dove with Neptune Dive Center, which was great. Highly recommended!
    Fish at the local market
    Fish at the local market
    We had a great dive!
    We had a great dive!
    Getting ready to dive Barracuda Lake, Philippines.
    Getting ready to dive Barracuda Lake, Philippines.
    Me descending into the hot, salty bottom layer of water in Baraccuda Lake. You can see the visual distortion of the hot water I'm descending into.
    Me descending into the hot, salty bottom layer of water in Baraccuda Lake. You can see the visual distortion of the hot water I’m descending into.
    Tracing the wall around Baraccuda Lake, in the middle-layer of water.
    Tracing the wall around Baraccuda Lake, in the middle-layer of water.
    After a day of diving, we decided to get some fresh air on the jeepney ride back to town.
    After a day of diving, we decided to get some fresh air on the jeepney ride back to town.
    Checking out the hot springs in Coron. These geothermally heated waters spill from the pools directly into the ocean.
    Checking out the hot springs in Coron. These geothermally heated waters spill from the pools directly into the ocean.
    DCIM102GOPROG1320746.
    G1320726-2015-02-14 Philippines-Donenfeld-1920-WM
    Fish at the local market
    Fish at the local market
    Our divemaster on the bow of the dive boat. Dive boats in the Philippines are typical double-outrigger boats.
    Our divemaster on the bow of the dive boat. Dive boats in the Philippines are typical double-outrigger boats.
    An incredible amount of fish swim on a the wreck of a Japanese battleship in Coron, Philippines.
    An incredible amount of fish swim on a the wreck of a Japanese battleship in Coron, Philippines.
    Diving in Coron.
    Diving in Coron.
    Ending a great dive in Coron.
    Ending a great dive in Coron.
    Triking around Coron.
    Triking around Coron.
    Departing Coron for Manila, and then on to Japan .
    Departing Coron for Manila, and then on to Japan .
  • Traveling Through Australia, New Zealand, Southeast Asia, and Japan, Summer 2013

    Traveling Through Australia, New Zealand, Southeast Asia, and Japan, Summer 2013

    After spending three months living and working in Antarctica with the United States Antarctic Program, I was dropped off in Christchurch in February, 2013, and spent the next three and a half months traveling up through Australia and New Zealand, around Southeast Asia, and finally up to Japan. It was an incredible opportunity, the trip of a lifetime, and I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it.


    View Larger Map

    All of my blog posts about Traveling Through Australia, New Zealand, SE Asia, and Japan, including most photos can be found at:

    https://JeffreyDonenfeld.com/blog/tag/southeast-asia-travels-2013/

    Related Media:

    2013-06-18 Angkor Wat - DSC05945-FullWM

    During my travels, I travelled technically alone – I wasn’t specifically traveling from the beginning with any other person. However, throughout my journey, I was rarely actually alone. I ended up meeting lots of fellow adventurers and locals in all of the countries I visited.

    My very general route of travel was:

    • New Zealand – Christchurch, Queenstown, Mt. Cook
    • Australia – Sydney, Brisbane, Sydney
    • Indonesia – Bali, Lombok, Komodo, Flores, Java, Jakarta
    • Singapore
    • Malaysia – Kuala Lumpur
    • Thailand – Ko Lanta, Tonsai, Railay, Ko Pi Pi, Phuket, Bangkok, Kanchanaburi
    • Myanmar (Burma) – Yangon, Laisho, Hsipaw, Mandalay, Bagan, Yangon
    • Thailand – Chiang Mai
    • Laos – Luang Prabang
    • Vietnam – Hanoi, Halong Bay, Danang, Hue, Hoi An, Saigon
    • Cambodia – Phnom Penh, Siem Reap
    • Thailand – Bangkok
    • Japan – Tokyo, Yokohama, Kyoto, Tokyo

    Below I’ve written a few summaries on various topics from my travels, as well as linked to all major media items, and articles written about my time in each country.

    Adventure Gear

    After I was dropped off in Christchurch, I had about 50lbs of gear with me, spread out over three bags – my Black Diamond Quantum 55L backpack, my Deuter 30L backpack, and my Patagonia Black Hole 90L duffle. This was mostly gear for the climate in Antarctica, and a bunch of personal comfort stuff like books, magazines, hoodies, slippers, etc that made life at the south pole much more comfortable. Obviously it was way too much to travel with on my own – and luckily, it was easy to sent home. For 10 days after I arrived back in Christchurch, I was given access to the APO Post Office. The APO is a military post office, and provides users with postage rates similar to what you’d find domestically. So I packed up everything except for a few items, and sent it all home in a giant box – all for about $45.

    I packed all of my travel gear in one single GoLite Jam 50L backpack. I had my father send me the backpack for pickup in Christchurch, and it was great. The Jam 50 is an ultralight, minimalist backpack, with just the right amount of space and features to make adventure traveling with it a pleasure. Once packed up, all of my gear weighed about 11kg, and included capability for me to go camping, swimming, hiking, and clubbing in cities. Everything fit in my GoLite backpack. When I needed a daypack, I simply emptied out the GoLite, cinched a few straps, and it was quickly the size of a daypack – very convenient.

    Here’s a list off the top of my head of my travel gear:

    • GoLite Jam 50 Backpack
    • OR Running Cap
    • Smartwool thin wool skull cap
    • RayBan New Wayfarer sunglasses
    • Patagonia wool/poly blend tshirt Blue
    • GoLite Wool tshirt Red
    • Arc’Teryx Black Polo Shirt
    • Oliver Spencer X Monocle blue buttondown shirt
    • J.Crew grey skinny tie
    • Patagonia R1 Flash pullover black
    • Arc’Teryx thin poofy jacket maroon
    • Patagona Alpine shell black
    • OR Convertable glove liners/thin shells black
    • AG Protege jeans black
    • Prana Stretch Zion pants grey
    • prAna Men’s Linear Shorts“>Prana Linear swim trunks black
    • Smartwool PHD socks low grey X2
    • Smartwool urban hiker socks calf black
    • Salomon XA Pro 3D Ultra 2 GTX shoes black
    • Timberland Wodehouse Oxford shoes black
    • Sanuk flippy floppies
    • Patagonia silkweight boxer briefs X4
    • Macbook Air 13
    • Apple in ear headphones
    • Camera Gear – discussed below
    • Sea to Summit Micro MC2 Sleeping Bag
    • OR Stuffsacks X3
    • Thermarest Neo Air Regular Sleeping Pad
    • SOL Emergency Bivy
    • Esbit Titanium Fuel Tablet Stove
    • Fuel Tablets
    • Suunto Core Black/Black watch
    • Apple iPhone 5 North America, Unlocked w/ Lifeproof case
    • Toiletries
    • Various other electronics and personal gear
    • Sea to Summit 10L drybag
    • Sea to Summit 1L drybag
    • I’m sure there’s more I’m forgetting, such as my Passport.

    2013-02-26 Mueller Hut - DSC08587-FullWM

    Photography

    rx100-cut-awayPhotography was a BIG part of my trip, and one of my main hobbies while I’m traveling, or really doing anything. Since I was traveling alone and as light as possible, I had to strike a balance between high quality, versatility, shooting comfort, and weight. In the end, I decided to ditch my (somewhat broken) Canon 5dMk2 SLR, and instead went with just two small cameras – my Sony RX100 compact, and my Apple iPhone 5. Traveling with the Sony RX100 turned out to be great. I had loved shooting with that camera at the south pole, and shooting with it while traveling was just as good. It’s very small – I can fit it in the pockets of my jeans. Yet, it still has full manual control of all camera functions, and just barely enough hand controls on the body to make it relatively easy to handle while shooting. Additionally, the other extremely important factor for me while shooting was the responsiveness – and the RX100 is great with that – controls feel snappy and responsive, and the feel of pushing the shutter button is tight. Not quite as instant and seamless as the controls on my SLR, but pretty darn close. When I’m shooting with my SLR, I know it well enough and it’s responsive enough that I can easily stop paying attention to using the camera, and devote full attention to shooting photos. With the Sony RX100, I’d say I can get about 75% of the way to fully forgetting about the camera. Not perfect, but pretty darn good for a compact.

    The RX100 takes great quality pictures, and I loved shooting on it. I shot mostly with it on Manual mode, taking RAW files. Occasionally i would have moments of laziness and shoot in Aperture priority or Program mode, but for the most part it was manual. Also, I assigned one of the settings memories to a low quality reference image mode – shooting JPG at a small picture size, full automatic, with a locked in high ISO of 3200. I used this mode for quickly shooting reference images, only for my use – pictures of descriptive signs, menus, receipts, business cards, maps, and other things I wanted to be able to refer back to while editing, but didn’t want to burn too much memory card space on. I didn’t delete any photos.

    2013-05-14 Mandalay - DSC02002-FullWM

    Being able to pocket the camera, and take it anywhere with me made for a very versatile setup. I could move around easier, and didn’t have to feel like I was sheparding it around, like I do sometimes with my SLR. Also, when I was shooting, it was much less obtrusive and obvious than a larger camera. People took less notice, and I could fit it into tighter spaces.

    There were a few downsides to shooting on a high end compact. First of all, although the camera has good manual hand controls, it’s still not at the level of control of an SLR. Changing some settings just takes longer when you have to go find it in a menu. The buttons are responsive, but not instant like on my 5Dmk2. Button response makes a BIG BIG BIG difference when shooting in the field. Also, the fixed zoom lens on the RX100 is nice and bright wide open, but slows down when zooming. The zoom on the camera is fast, but it’s an electronic control. Having a consistently fast zoom lens with manual zoom controls like my Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L is a distinct luxury. One final distinction with the smaller size is the smaller mass and moment of the entire camera. The RX100 is small and lightweight, and therefore it’s easy to move around and shake. Shakes are not what you want when taking photos – and because the RX100 is so light, there’s very little “buffer” to any hand shakes. It’s also physically small, so what little mass it does have is concentrated in a smaller space. In comparison, the 5dMk2, with the 24-70 lens is HEAVY, and with the long lens and overall larger dimensions, that weight is distributed over a larger area. That means that is naturally is more difficult to shake, so small hand shakes get somewhat buffered out. This may seem like a small detail, but it becomes hugely important when trying to handhold longer exposures, and trying to shoot with as low of an ISO as possible.

    I traveled with my Apple Macbook Air 13″, and used Adobe Lightroom to organize and edit photos. Although I loaded all of my photos onto my Macbook, I also kept backup copies on the memory cards I was using – I didn’t erase any memory cards, and instead bought more memory when I needed to. This was a bit more expensive, but allowed me to keep two copies of my photos – one on my laptop and one on a small memory card, and still keep on shooting. When I traveled, I usually left my laptop back  where I was staying, and carried my memory cards with me – SD Cards are relatively small and portable, and a few of the cards I used were MicroSD w/ an adapter, which is even easier to carry taped to a card in your wallet.

    See my full set of photos from Asia on my Flickr Stream.

    Adventure Travel Planning

    Planning my various adventures and expeditions is usual something I’m very meticulous and calculating about. The trips I do are often times complicated and dangerous, requiring a high degree of advanced planning and consideration to make them work. However, for this trip, I did very little advanced planning. I got my job in Antarctica a mere 5 days departing, and then chose not to take the time while at the south pole to plan out my travels. By the time I arrived back in Christchurch, New Zealand, I had my next week of mountaineering with friends from the ice planned out, but that’s about it.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9425891656/

    The rest of my travels were done in the moment, based on what I was feeling at the time – and it was the absolute best thing to do. Since I was traveling alone, I had the freedom to meet anybody I wanted, and instantly modify my route when I felt like it. This opened me up to lots of fun possibilities, and great spur of the moment adventures.

    I slept in lots of different places during my travels, and mainly kept to the budget end of things. In Bali, I was fortunate to be able to stay at my friend Jessica’s house for a while. I slept on a few boat, and lots of hostels, hotels, and guesthouses. At the beginning of my travels, I was usually making accommodation reservations a few nights in advance – however, as I traveled more, I transitioned to making bookings on the night of. I found that most hostels weren’t completely booked, and since I had a single lightweight bag, it was easy enough for me to walk around to find a cool place. This also allowed me to check out the “scene” of a place before I stayed there.

    2013-05-27 Luang Prabang - DSC03465-FullWM

    Since I was traveling alone, staying in hostels and hotels with active social scenes was a great thing for me. Places like Julie Guesthouse in Chiang Mai, Thailand have nice common areas with food and wifi, where fellow travelers meet up to talk about places to go and things to see. I’d meet lots of cool people this way – both groups, and other single travelers. Meeting people while traveling is easy, and I was very rarely doing anything alone.

    Staying Connected

    While traveling, it was essential to stay connected – both to other people I was traveling with, contacts I would be meeting up with, as well as my friends and family back home. I also updated this blog frequently while traveling, so I needed some sort of connection.

    I carried two communications devices with me – my Apple iPhone5, and my Apple Macbook Pro 13″. Both were great.

    My iPhone came from AT&T in the USA, however when I was in Sydney I found an online service that unlocked it for me – no need to jailbreak or anything, and I got my phone completely unlocked. So, with an unlocked GSM phone, I could easily buy SIM cards in most of the countries I went to, and stay connected on the local cell network. In Thailand especially, staying in touch was easy – I bought a SIM card for about $2, and then paid about $15 for unlimited 3G data access for 30 days. Since I mostly used data, and not text or voice, this was perfect.

    On my phone, I relied on a number of apps to stay connected.

    • Apple’s built in Mail app – For email, obviously
    • LINE messaging – Keeping in touch with people mostly in Japan, Thailand, Vietnam via text, pics, voice messages.
    • WhatsApp messaging – Keeping in touch with people mostly in USA, Canada, Indonesia, Australia.
    • Foursquare – Checking out locations popular with other travelers and busy at the moment.
    • Facebook – Keeping in touch with other friends, and friending new people met while traveling.
    • Tripadvisor – Checking out mass market reviews of potential travel spots, and looking at the location guides for top attractions.
    • CityMaps2Go – Super great app for offline maps – I downloaded maps I needed when I had a connection, and could then refer back to them when I was offline.
    • BIG Text – Simple – displays text you type in big letters on your screen. Good for spelling out stuff for people, presenting confirmation numbers, etc.

    My Macbook Air was a great resource – It’s very thin, lightweight, and strong – perfect for jamming in my backpack. And it’s also fast enough to use Adobe Lightroom with, and for web surfing and messaging. Although naturally I’d prefer a 15″ retina display for photos, the 13″ standard res display was adequate for traveling. After owning this computer for about 3 years, and traveling the world with it, it’s still in great shape.

    2013-04-01 Borobudur - DSC03652-FullWM

    I never ever felt the need for a tablet, and frankly feel like it’s completely unnecessary. I have my macbook with a full keyboard for typing out messages and doing photo editing and everything else you use a computer for. And then I have my iPhone for mobile computing and messaging. Movies can be watched on either. I really don’t see where I would need a tablet – it’s too underpowered and doesn’t have a full keyboard, so I can’t use it for the more intense messaging and blog posting, and it’s larger than a phone, so I can’t pocket it and have it everywhere. My Macbook Air is so smal that there’s no reason not to have it, given how much it can do.

    Wifi was abundant almost everywhere, and in places with no Wifi, I could easily tether my macbook to my phone, and use my unlimited cellular data connection. Easy.

    Blog posts from my recent travels, by country:

    New Zealand

    2013-02-26 Mueller Hut - DSC08933-FullWM

    Australia

    Quicksilver Pro Surfing 2013

    Indonesia

    2013-04-03 Jakarta - IMG_2581-FullWM
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8632343616/in/set-72157633193228903
    2013-03-31 Bromo - IMG_2550-FullWM
    2013-03-31 Bromo - DSC03461-FullWM
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8630147439/in/set-72157633194891616
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8617444495/in/set-72157633158073851
    2013-03-23 Komodo Cruise - DSC01497-FullWM
    2013-03-23 Komodo Cruise - DSC01884-FullWM
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8617274872/in/set-72157633154879965
    2013-03-14 Ubud Bali - IMG_1851-FullWM
    2013-03-12 Festival - DSC00519-FullWM

    Singapore

    2013-04-11 Singapore - DSC04425-FullWM
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8670367839/in/set-72157633298136149

    Malaysia

    2013-04-12 Kuala Lumpur - DSC04921-FullWM
    2013-04-12 Kuala Lumpur - DSC05076-FullWM

    Thailand

    2013-05-19 Chiang Mai - DSC02884-FullWM
    2013-05-19 Chiang Mai - DSC03026-FullWM
    2013-05-01 Kanchanaburi - IMG_3566-FullWM
    2013-04-27 Bangkok - DSC07528-FullWM
    2013-04-27 Bangkok - IMG_3535-FullWM
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8919297862/in/set-72157633868016524
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8788373483/in/set-72157633591638139
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/8778858254/in/set-72157633589699628

    Myanmar (Burma)

    2013-05-15 Bagan - DSC02368-FullWM
    2013-05-13 Hsipaw>Mandalay - DSC01621-FullWM
    2013-05-09 Trekking Northern Shan State - DSC00892-FullWM
    2013-05-09 Trekking Northern Shan State - DSC00524-FullWM
    2013-05-09 Trekking Northern Shan State - DSC01125-FullWM
    2013-05-09 Trekking Northern Shan State - DSC01096-FullWM
    2013-05-07 Hsipaw - DSC00391-FullWM
    2013-05-05 Yangon - DSC09107-FullWM
    2013-05-05 Yangon - IMG_3757-FullWM

    Laos

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9412961022/in/set-72157634882904822
    2013-05-29 Lao Hill Tribes - DSC03828-FullWM
    2013-05-27 Luang Prabang - DSC03277-FullWM
    2013-05-27 Luang Prabang - IMG_4273-FullWM
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9398001992/in/set-72157634848259459
    2013-05-25 Slow Boat to Laos - DSC03206-FullWM

    Vietnam

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9455835564/in/set-72157634959634787
    2013-06-12 Out With Tran - DSC05469-FullWM
    2013-06-10 Biking Hue>Hoi An - IMG_4641-FullWM
    2013-06-09 Hue Imperial Palace - DSC05000-FullWM
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9453403163/in/set-72157634959634757
    2013-06-05 Monkeys and Turtles - IMG_4416-FullWM
    Cambodia

    2013-06-18 Angkor Wat - DSC05855-FullWM
    2013-06-18 Angkor Wat - DSC06029-FullWM
    2013-06-18 Angkor Wat - DSC05943-FullWM

    Japan

    2013-06-27 Kyoto - DSC06884-FullWM
    2013-06-24 Tsujiki Fish Market - DSC06370-FullWM
    2013-06-29 Tokyo - IMG_5410-FullWM
    2013-06-24 Out w Toshi and Taeko - DSC06611-FullWM

  • Going Inside the Vinh Moc Tunnels, Vietnam

    Going Inside the Vinh Moc Tunnels, Vietnam

    On our way down to Hue, we made one brief, but solid stop at the Vinh Moc Tunnels. From Wikipedia:

    Vinh Moc (V?nh M?c) is a tunnel complex in Quang Tri, Vietnam. During the Vietnam War it was strategically located on the border of North Vietnam and South Vietnam. The tunnels were built to shelter people from the intense bombing of Son Trung and Son Ha communes in Vinh Linh county of Quang Tri Province in the Vietnamese Demilitarized Zone. The American forces believed the villagers of Vinh Moc were supplying food and armaments to the North Vietnamese garrison on the island of Con Co which was in turn hindering the American bombers on their way to bomb Hanoi. The idea was to force the villagers of Vinh Moc to leave the area but as is typical in Vietnam there was nowhere else to go. The villagers initially dug the tunnels to move their village 10 metres underground but the American forces designed bombs that burrowed down 10 metres. Eventually against these odds, the villagers moved the village to a depth of 30 metres. It was constructed in several stages beginning in 1966 and used until early 1972. The complex grew to include wells, kitchens, rooms for each family and spaces for healthcare. Around 60 families lived in the tunnels; as many as 17 children were born inside the tunnels.

    Since the area above the tunnels was continuously pummeled by bombs during the war, bomb craters are everywhere – and huge.
    2013-06-08 Vinh Moc Tunnels - DSC04839-FullWM

    Concrete ditches run everywhere, allowing the people living in the tunnels to sneak around on the surface, and fight against enemies on the land.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9456183528/in/set-72157634959634759

    The tunnels sit on a hillside looking over the South China Sea. It’s a beautiful view.
    2013-06-08 Vinh Moc Tunnels - DSC04847-FullWM

    Inside, the tunnels are very very small and cramped – it’s amazing that anybody was able to live in there for as long as they did.
    2013-06-08 Vinh Moc Tunnels - DSC04860-FullWM