Jeffrey Donenfeld

Tag: luang prabang

Trekking Into The Laotian Mountains To Live With The Hmong Hilltribes

While in Laos, I also did a bit of trekking in the mountains. Luang Prabang is a beautiful town, and is situated on the edge of the northern Laotian mountains, making it an excellent starting point for incredible trekking. I joined up with two friends, and together the three of us, as well as our local Hmong guide from White Elephant Adventures trekked up into the mountains.

View Larger Map

On the first day, the four of us hopped in the back of a covered pickup truck in Luang Prabang, and set off on the road to the mountains. About an hour into the drive, we were stopped temporarily by Laos

Finally walking after our truck ride. The walk into the mountains was beautiful, and we got to cross a few hand made, seasonal bamboo bridges. The bridges are only present during the dry season, and are swept away every year by the monsoon season floods.

As we passed through villages, we met lots of villagers and their kids. Although the people are very poor, they

Continuing on, we passed through a number of large rubber tree plantations.

The bark of the tree is cut in a diagonal pattern, and a tap is inserted at the base of the cut, funneling the rubber sap into a cup.

We passed through beautiful and rugged jungles, with steep cliffs looming overhead. The scenery here is incredible.

After an easy 7 hour hike, we made it to our stopping point for the evening, and immediately fell in with meeting the locals and relaxing.

I also helped feed the pigs!

In the evening, we sat around a single candle and discussed the locals way of life, and listened to the sounds of the surrounding jungle.

The next morning, an early wakeup in a beautiful setting, and then a quick 4 hour hike to the river.

At the river, we loaded our backpacks into kayaks, and set off down the river for a smooth arrival back in Luang Prabang.

At the river, we loaded our backpacks into kayaks, and set off down the river for a smooth arrival back in Luang Prabang.

Overal, the trip was way too short, but a great intro to the hill tribe life, given the time I had. White Elephant Tours did a great jobs, and I’d certainly recommend them for future travelers. Additionally, it’s worth noting that I took a few hours upon my return to sit with the White Elephant guide staff and give them a quick field medicine overview. I was happy to be teaching some of my W-EMT skills in Laos!

Next… Hanoi

2013-05-29
Exploring Luang Prabang, Laos

Photos

Luang Prabang is: Exotic, Relaxing, Colonial. Rolling into town fresh off of the slow boat, it was a beautiful sight – French Colonial style houses line the streets, the open air market thrives, and people walk around serenely looking out to the waters of the Mekong River. Unfortunately I only had 5 days in Laos, but I tried to make the most of it.

View Larger Map

After checking in at the X2 Capsule Hotel guesthouse on the first day there, me and a few people from the boat immediately walked over to the open air market for some delicious Laotian food. Food vendors in the central market cook giant tables full of food – and charge about USD$1 for as much food as you can eat – it’s tasty and fresh, and the first night in Luang Prabang was fantastic. Naturally after a good meal, a few of us went over to the hippest bar in town – appropriately named Utopia. This idillic bar/garden/restaurant/beach volleyball arena has everything you could want for a relaxing evening, including a great view out to the river. Sets of kids laze around on mats, sipping drinks, looking out over the river.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395287715/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9397892616/in/set-72157634848259459

The next morning, waking up early, another big group of us hailed an eager TukTuk driver and got a ride out to the majestic Kuang Si Falls – easily one of the most beautiful waterfall swimming areas I’ve experienced.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9397929572/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395126569/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9397913266/in/set-72157634848259459

After the caves, we took our TukTuk across town to the river, and then a small boat across the river for a bit cave exploring. The Pak Ou Caves are beautifully set into a cliffside on the side of the river, and it ended up being a perfect place to watch the sunset.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9398001992/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9397944294/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395228571/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395213293/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9397960790/in/set-72157634848259459

And naturally, a great dinner with friend Maud at the best restaurant in Luang Prabant – Tamarind. Manager Rudy is always fun to be around, too. Recommend their Granitas!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9398006906/in/set-72157634848259459

For my final day in Luang Prabang, I spent a bit of time exploring town. Luang Prabang is truly a beautiful town, and the French influence is felt everywhere. The houses are beautiful, streets are well laid out, and everything seems calm and cool with the rivers running around the edges of town. Also with the main part of town being surrounded by water, the houses and people become compressed a bit, creating a sense of excitement everwhere. I spent a good amount of time exploring local cafes, temples, playing Bocce with locals, and eating crepe’s from street vendors.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395281337/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9398036230/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395274671/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9398029968/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395250179/in/set-72157634848259459
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395256469/in/set-72157634848259459

It’s worth noting that I took a few supremely relaxing morning runs in Luang Prabang. Every morning I would get up as early as I could, take a leisurely walk across the seasonal bamboo bridge, and then run northwards along the river banks. Running here was the most relaxing and serene running in all of Asia – definitely recommended.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395241893/in/set-72157634848259459

Finally, despite Luang Prabang’s serene vibe, it’s worth noting that Laos is the most bombed country in the world, and the effects of bombing during the war are still felt. The Luang Prabang Unexploded Ordinance (UXO) museum is a grisly reminder of the countries war-torn past.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395295067/in/set-72157634848259459

Next after exploring Luang Prabang and hiking in the hills was Hanoi, Vietnam.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9395302019/in/set-72157634848259459

2013-05-27
Riding The Slow Boat To Luang Prabang, Laos

Taking the slow boat to Laos is a travel pilgrimage that I had heard of for years, and after a few days in Chiang Mai, I was finally ready to embark on the journey.

View Larger Map

By the time we hit the border, it was 3 in the morning. A few quick winks of sleep, and then back up to start the river journey.

Luckily, I started with a great breakfast with friends while watching sunrise over the Mekong River

After stamping out at Chiang Kong, everybody is piled into a longtail boat and taken across the river into the Lao bordertown of Huay Xai, where restamping happens.

Overall a mostly smooth process

The slow boat is slow, and most of the day was spent relaxing on the water and watching the countryside go by.

At the end of the first day, the boat stopped at the small town of Pakbeng, where all the tourits are aggressively marketed to, and ushered to various guesthouses

Evening in Pakbeng was nice, with some good food and good beers!

The second day started with another beautiful sunrise and breakfast, and then back on the boat for the final leg of the journey.

Finally arriving in Luang Prabang, I hiked up to the road, and shared a TukTuk into town with a few fellow travelers.

2013-05-25