Tag: Mountaineering

  • Climbing Grays and Torreys Peaks in Early Season Snow – 14,278 feet

    Climbing Grays and Torreys Peaks in Early Season Snow – 14,278 feet

    mRTorr_501Fall colors in Colorado are beautiful – and what better vantage point than the top of 2 Colorado 14ers. This weekend, I did the Fall 14er adventure and  climbed with a group of friends to the tops of Grays and Torreys Peaks. (USGS Topo Quad)

    Wikipedia:

    “Grays Peak is the tenth highest summit of the Rocky Mountains of North America and the U.S. state of Colorado. The prominent 14,278-foot (4,352 m) fourteener is the highest summit of the Front Range and the highest point on the Continental Divide in North America. (There are higher summits, such as Mount Elbert, which are near, but not on, the Divide.) Grays Peak is located in Arapahoe National Forest, 3.9 miles (6.2 km) southeast by east (bearing 122°) of Loveland Pass on the Continental Divide between Clear Creek and Summit counties. The peak is the highest point in both counties.”

  • Climbing Mt. Rainier

    Climbing Mt. Rainier

    During one of my high school summers, I climbed Mt. Rainier with Rainier Mountaineering Incorporated (RMI), as part of a larger trip with Wilderness Ventures. Here’s the only photo I can find from the trip, showing me learning to ice climb at the base. Shot with my first compact/waterproof/shockproof camera, the 35mm Canon Sure Shot A-1. I loved that camera.

     

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  • Climbing Mont Blanc – 15,781 ft, Western Europe’s Highest Mountain

    Climbing Mont Blanc – 15,781 ft, Western Europe’s Highest Mountain

    Mont Blanc is the highest peak in Western Europe, resting on the Italian/French border and towering over the alps at almost 16,000 feet above sea level. It’s slopes are clad in thick glaciers, and it’s buffeted by constant wind. Last week, my brother Jason and I traveled to Chamonix and climbed it. Here’s the story.

    The week before we had spent in Cassis, Southern France relaxing on beaches and hiking around mellow coastal rocks. We were ready for a challenge, so we rented a car in Nice and drove through Italy to Chamonix, France. For the next week, accompanied with veteran mountain guide Magnus Strand, we climbed icy peaks and treacherous ridges, all leading up to a final summit push straight to the top of Mont Blanc.

  • Climbing Mt. Sherman – 14,035 Feet

    Climbing Mt. Sherman – 14,035 Feet

    Another great Colorado 14er weekend – this weekend Amy, Shannon and I headed up to Mt. Sherman, in Colorado’s Mosquito Range.

    We headed up Saturday evening and camped at the Fourmile Campground, just below the Southwest Ridge trailhead. Luckily the light rain stopped right as we got our fire going, and we enjoyed a great night cooking and hanging by the fire.

    Sunday, we woke up early and met a few more friends at the trailhead before heading up to the top. Hiking up Mt. Sherman wasn’t particularly strenous, and the views at saddle and on the top were great.

    GPS Track, recorded on Garmin Forerunner 310xt and uploaded to Strava:


    (Photos on Flickr)

  • Climbing Colorado’s Mt. Massive – 14,429 Feet

    Climbing Colorado’s Mt. Massive – 14,429 Feet

    This past weekend, I traveled with a good group of friends to Leadville, Colorado to camp at the base of and climb Mt. Massive, one of Colorado’s 14ers, and the 2nd highest peak in the Rocky Mountains.

    Route Description, from 14ers.com:

    Leave the parking area and begin hiking up the Colorado/Mt. Massive trail – Photo #1. Cross South Willow Creek (Photo #2) after 2 miles and continue another mile before crossing Willow Creek (Photo #3), at 11,000‘. Both of these crossings are fairly easy unless the rocks are submerged or icy. Continue northwest up a hill and to reach a trail junction at 11,300‘ – Photo #4. Turn left onto the Mt. Massive Trail. Hike approx. 1/4 mile up a hill and through some small clearings to reach 11,600‘ where the terrain flattens out and you can finally see portions of Massive ahead – Photo #5.

    Continue to 11,800‘, zigzag through willows and ascend Point 12,466‘ -Photo #6 and Photo #7. Reach easier ground near 12,400‘ where most of the remaining route is now in view to the west – Photo #8. With 2 miles remaining, the summit is still a long way off. Your next goal is to reach the saddle between “South Massive” and the summit ridge. Continue up the excellent trail as you gradually gain ground and eliminate distance – Photo #9. Keep hauling to reach the 13,900-foot saddle – Photo #10, Photo #11 and Photo #12.

    Turn right at the saddle and follow a small trail up toward the summit ridge – Photo #13, Photo #14and Photo #15. The exact line to the ridge depends on snow conditions and/or route finding along the broken trail. Near the ridge, reach a notch and signed (hopefully) trail junction. This is where the Southwest Slopes trail comes up from the south. Photo #16 looks back at the trail junction. Past the junction, stay right of the ridge crest and weave up through the rocks (Photo #17 and Photo #18) to reach easier terrain on the ridge crest near 14,300‘ – Photo #19 and Photo #20. Gain a false summit where you can finally see the summit – Photo #21. Drop to the left, continue to a saddle (Photo #22) and follow the faint trail over to the top. From the summit, Photo #23 looks back on the summit ridge.

    (First time I climbed Mt. Massive, in 2001) (Flickr Set)

  • How to plan, train and  pack for your first summit above 14,000 feet

    How to plan, train and pack for your first summit above 14,000 feet


    Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 12.24.17 PMThis month, I was featured in Boulder Lifestyle Magazine discussing some great Colorado 14ers to get you started on your first climb. Thanks to journalist Sandra Henderson for interviewing me for the article. Check out the article, starting on page 34!

  • Climbing Mt. Sneffels to 14,150 feet

    Climbing Mt. Sneffels to 14,150 feet

    This past week, my climbing partner Sean Safdi and I successfully the Mt. Sneffels summit loop climb, topping out at the 14,150 foot peak in perfect weather. A few pics from our climb.


    View Larger Map

    To access the trailhead, we drove from Telluride, Colorado to Ouray, Colorado and then up a 4WD road outside of Ouray into Yankee Boy Basin. The 4WD road was fine for most of the time, however the running boards on our Jeep Liberty took a beating, and had to be ripped off with a tire iron in the middle of the drive.

    2013-09-03 Mt. Sneffles - IMG_3656-FullWM
    2013-09-03 Mt. Sneffles - IMG_3672-FullWM

    Yankee Boy Road, leading up the basin.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9690925972/

    Starting out the hike, instead of following markers to the Mt. Sneffels scree field ascent, we instead took the Blue Lakes Saddle trail up to the Southwest Ridge. Once we were at the saddle, we turned to take on the jagged and steep knife edge Southwest Ridge leading to the summit.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9690926612/
    2013-09-03 Mt. Sneffles - IMG_3743-FullWM

    Mt. Sneffels Climbing Routes Map

    Blue lakes on the other side of the saddle.
    2013-09-03 Mt. Sneffles - IMG_3763-FullWM

    Getting steeper towards the summit.
    2013-09-03 Mt. Sneffles - IMG_3782-FullWM
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/9687686555/
    2013-09-03 Mt. Sneffles - IMG_3826-FullWM
    2013-09-03 Mt. Sneffles - IMG_3844-FullWM

    On the summit of Mt. Sneffels, one of Colorado’s 14’ers. What a great climb!
    2013-09-03 Mt. Sneffles - IMG_3868-FullWM

  • Trip Summary – NOLS WOE Tetons Ski Mountaineering Expedition, January 2012

    Trip Summary – NOLS WOE Tetons Ski Mountaineering Expedition, January 2012

    I’ve returned safely from the backountry after completing the National Outdoor Leadership Schools Winter Outdoor Educator course. Overall it was a great trip, filled with adventure. Here’s course leader Roger Yim’s summary, links to my photos and videos from the course, and my daily summaries.
    Course Summary, by Course Leader Roger Yim:

    Instructors: Roger Yim, Emily Ledingham, Lindsay Yost

    The Winter Outdoor Educator course was held in the Arizona Creek area outside of Grand Teton National Park. This was a 15 day self-sufficient expedition with 2 days of resort skiing at Grand Targhe Resort, a one day terrain tour and 2 days of classes and preparation. There were 13 students initially and 3 instructors. One student was evacuated in the first several days of the expedition due to an illness. The course was challenged with 120 cm of new snowfall, wet snow conditions and down to -18 C air temperatures. The curriculum focused on ski touring skills, winter camping, avalanche assessment/rescue and leave no trace. Students taught minin classes to improve their teaching skills and worked on self-leadership, peet leadership and some limited designated roles. Some of course highlights were improvement in skiing, avalanche and the impressive scenery of the Tetons. The students have developed a good foundation of backcountry ski skills.

    Daily Summaries:

    Photo slideshow.

  • Exploring the Salkantay Trail and Machu Pichu in Peru

    Exploring the Salkantay Trail and Machu Pichu in Peru

    This past September, my friend Chris Shybut and I spend 10 days trekking through Peru. During the trip, we explored all over, and had some great adventures. The trip also forced us to brush up on our Spanish – a much needed refresher.

    During the urban parts of the trip, we explored the cities of Lima and Cusco, including grabbing food at street stands, listening to live music in trendy restaurants, hanging out in countless plazas, hanging out with the locals, witnessing a fight or two, and paragliding high above the Lima metropolis.

    Heading into the mountains, we completed an extremely rugged four day trek on the Salkantay trail, averaging about 13 miles per day, and topping out the trek at 15,200 feet above sea level in a driving blizzard. We also set off on mountain bikes to  explore the ancient Incan agricultural experiments of Moray, and marvel at the thousands of terraced salt mines of Maras.

    To top it off, we had a great time fully exploring the ruins of Machu Picchu, including an extremely steep hike up to the top of Wayna Picchu.

    During the trip, I traveled with two cameras – my Apple iPhone 4, and my Canon 5DmkII. Having both an ultra slim camera phone and a full size SLR at my disposal gave me the ability to shoot in most situations. I usually carried the iPhone in my pocket, and had a LowePro slimline case for my SLR. The case had an attachment loop on it which allowed me to attach it to the waistbelt of my backpack – this way, I had access to both cameras while we were hiking. I also brought along my carbon fiber travel tripod, and a bunch of other random accessories. I shot with one lens – the Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L, which gives a great range of focal lengths, in a weatherproof, burly, high quality package. The lens is definitely on the big and heavy side, but it’s still a pleasure to shoot with. I shot in RAW on the SLR and full res JPG with the iPhone. Overall, there were about 2800 photos, which was edited down to a 104 photo consumable set.

    Enjoy the photos, videos, and daily logs of our trip. The logs were written by both Chris and myself at the end of each day using Notepad and WordPress applications on my iPhone 4. We tried to put in as many details as possible into the daily logs, but if there’s anything else you’d like to know about the trip, just ask.

    Daily Summaries

    Q&A

    Q. What was your favorite part of the trip?

    A. My favorite part of the trip was definitely interacting with the local Peruvians. It was a great opportunity to practice my spanish, and the Peruvian people as extremely friendly, outgoing and warm. I was surprised that everyone we passed said hi, and was always up to talk about whatever.
    Q. Did you guys stay in hostels or couching or where?
    A. A combination. The first two nights in Cusco we stayed at the Casa De Campo Guesthouse. Then, we spend three nights while hiking the Salcantay trail staying in our REI Half Dome 2 Tent. Then, we spend two nights staying in the Wiracocha Inn in Aguas Calientes, another night at the Loki Backpacker Hostel in Cusco, and the final night at our friend GP’s apartment in Lima.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/4999988397/in/set-72157624979181612/#/photos/jamfan2/4999988397/in/set-72157624979181612/lightbox/

    Video Clips

  • Climbing Mt. Washington

    Climbing Mt. Washington

    Last weekend, my brother Jason and I took a roadrtip to North Conway, and climbed Mt. Washington with the EMS Climbing school.

    We drove up to North Conway on Friday Night, and stayed at the White Trellis motel. With a 4 am arrival, I thought a locally owned motel would be the easiest do deal with. The next day, Saturday, Jason slept in a bit while I went into town to take some photos and buy girl scout cookies – tasty! We then both went into North Conway to the Stairway Cafe, and had a great breakfast. The rest of the day we spent gearing up at EMS, and then drove out to Jason’s summer camp an hour away.

    Being at camp in the winter was an experience – everything covered in snow was a stark contrast to the hot and humid summertime. By far the best part of the day was standing on the frozen lake and taking in the fading sunlight. On a white lake near a green mountain – peaceful.

    Saturday night we went out for dinner at Moat Mountain with some of Jason’s friends, and then called it a night at the Appalachian Mountain Club’s Joe Dodge Lodge.

    Joe Dodge Lodge is a rustic mountain lodge, run by the AMC, and sits directly at the foot of the Pinkham Notch trail, which leads up to the top of Mt. Washington. Accommodations were perfect – a small room in the lodge with a bunkbed, shared dorm style bathroom down the hall, and a great cafeteria across the way. It was a bit like being back in the dorms at college, or at camp!

    Sunday morning we woke up early for a hearty breakfast at the cafeteria, and then met our climbing group just outside.

    The hike up Mt. Washington was spectacular. We had 4 people in our group, and were accompanied by another group also from EMS of 5 more people. The beginning of the hike along the fire road was a good warmup, and then we put our crampons on and started up the beginning, steep section within tree line. The weather was amazingly mild, and we had an easy hike up to treeline. After we got above treeline, there were a few more miles of mild weather hiking, and then as we got a little closer to the top the weather blew in.

    Throughout the climb up, the Rime Ice, which is ice created from supercooled liquid fog, was extremely dramatic, and stuck to everything. Even taking my camera out on the summit for just a minute, Rime Ice immediately began to build up on the lens. You can see the spots of ice in our summit video.

    The trip back down the mountain was fun and fast, with some fun glissading on our buts for the very last part!

    Sunday night we spent some more time at EMS going over gear, and then Jason and I had a good dinner and went back to Joe Dodge Lodge.

    Monday morning was a relaxing breakfast in the cafeteria, and a long, leisurely drive back to the city.

    Photos on Flickr

  • Climbing Mt. Massive with Molly – 14,428 Feet

    Climbing Mt. Massive with Molly – 14,428 Feet

    In 2001, I climbed Colorado’s Mt. Massive for the first time. The blog post was originally made on my Geocities blog, but sadly never transferred over to my now-continuing database, started in 2002 on Blogger v1. Here are photos from our awesome climb up Mt. Massive!

    Photoset, on Flickr