Jeffrey Donenfeld

Tag: nagano

  • Zenkoji Temple, Nagano, Japan

    Zenkoji Temple, Nagano, Japan

    During my most recent lap through Japan, I had the opportunity to spend a day at Nagano’s mystical buddhist Zenkoji Temple. I’m blaming my lack of sleep the night before for the absence of shots, but here’s a few from the time I spent there. In Nagano, I stayed at the 1166 Backpackers Hostel, which was great. 1166 Backpackers is a clean, warm, and inviting hostel, and I’d certainly reccommend anybody looking for community-oriented, affortable accomodation in Nagano stay with her.

    From Wikipedia:

    Zenk?-ji (????) is a Buddhist temple located in Nagano, Japan. The temple was built in the 7th century. Nagano City, established in 1897, was originally a town built around the temple. Historically, Zenk?-ji is perhaps most famous for its involvement in the battles between Uesugi Kenshin and Takeda Shingen in the 16th century, when it served as one of Kenshin’s bases of operations. Currently, Zenk?-ji is one of the last few remaining pilgrimage sites in Japan.

    Zenk?-ji was founded before Buddhism in Japan was split into several different sects, so it currently belongs to both the Tendai and J?dosh? schools of Buddhism, and is co-managed by twenty-five priests from the former school, and fourteen from the latter. The temple enshrines images of the Amida Buddha. According to legend, the image, having caused dispute between two clans, was dumped into a canal. It was later rescued by Yoshimitsu Honda. The temple was thus named “Zenk?,” according to the Chinese transliteration of Yoshimitsu’s name.

    A nun blesses followers at the Zenkoji Temple, Nagano, Japan
    A nun blesses followers at the Zenkoji Temple, Nagano, Japan
    Coins and papers tied to a tree for luck at the Zenkoji Temple, Nagano, Japan
    Coins and papers tied to a tree for luck at the Zenkoji Temple, Nagano, Japan
    The pathway leading to the Zenkoji Temple is crowded with vendors and restaurtants - but is a nice walk nontheless.
    The pathway leading to the Zenkoji Temple is crowded with vendors and restaurtants – but is a nice walk nontheless.
    My wonderful group at the 1166 Backpackers hostel I stayed at in Nagano, Japan.
    My wonderful group at the 1166 Backpackers hostel I stayed at in Nagano, Japan.
  • Shibu Onsen Snow Monkeys

    Shibu Onsen Snow Monkeys

    High in the mountains of central Japan, there’s a hotsprings “onsen” where Macaque snow monkeys bathe. Saori and I took an amazing trip to visit them, and soak in a few onsens ourselves.

    Saori and I were introduced by a mutual friend, and met up in Tokyo at the main Tokyo train station. To save on time, and have an awesome ride, we took a Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Nagano - fast and comfortable!
    Saori and I were introduced by a mutual friend, and met up in Tokyo at the main Tokyo train station. To save on time, and have an awesome ride, we took a Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Nagano – fast and comfortable!
    Tokyo station is designated as the "centroid" of Tokyo, and here's the actual center marker of the city! Right on the Shinkansen platform.
    Tokyo station is designated as the “centroid” of Tokyo, and here’s the actual center marker of the city! Right on the Shinkansen platform.
    Since we were dashing to catch the after-work train, we picked up a few bento boxes for dinner. For train food, this is pretty awesome.
    Since we were dashing to catch the after-work train, we picked up a few bento boxes for dinner. For train food, this is pretty awesome.
    Arrival in Nagano, site of the 1998 Olympic Games. From here, we got another slower train up to Yudanaka, and then walked about 30 minutes to Shibu Onsen.
    Arrival in Nagano, site of the 1998 Olympic Games. From here, we got another slower train up to Yudanaka, and then walked about 30 minutes to Shibu Onsen.
    Walking through the streets of Shibu Onsen at night. The traditional town is beautifully old-worldly, with cobblestone streets and traditional houses. Also, streams of geothermally heated onsen water bubble from pipes and vents everywhere.
    Walking through the streets of Shibu Onsen at night. The traditional town is beautifully old-worldly, with cobblestone streets and traditional houses. Also, streams of geothermally heated onsen water bubble from pipes and vents everywhere.
    We stayed at a traditional Ryokan, and had a great tatami room to ourselves, complete with dining table, porch, futon mattresses, a private bathroom, and most importantly a karaoke machine! The room also came with robes, a key to our own private co-ed onsen, and a pair of keys to the legendary 9 public onsens for which Shibu Onsen is known.
    We stayed at a traditional Ryokan, and had a great tatami room to ourselves, complete with dining table, porch, futon mattresses, a private bathroom, and most importantly a karaoke machine! The room also came with robes, a key to our own private co-ed onsen, and a pair of keys to the legendary 9 public onsens for which Shibu Onsen is known.
    Starting the day of exploring the mountains and seeing the snow monkeys.
    Starting the day of exploring the mountains and seeing the snow monkeys.
    Walking through Shibu Onsen - such a beautiful town.
    Walking through Shibu Onsen – such a beautiful town.
    Outside of Shibu Onsen, the river leads to mountains filled with snow - and the ski slopes of Shiga Kogen, Japan's largest ski resort.
    Outside of Shibu Onsen, the river leads to mountains filled with snow – and the ski slopes of Shiga Kogen, Japan’s largest ski resort.
    Geothermally heated onsen water springs up from pipes all around town. Here, it's rising through a piping system that delivers it directly to people's houses.
    Geothermally heated onsen water springs up from pipes all around town. Here, it’s rising through a piping system that delivers it directly to people’s houses.
    Japan loves vending machines - so much so that a snowy field seems like a great place to maintain one. Hot or cold drinks anytime!
    Japan loves vending machines – so much so that a snowy field seems like a great place to maintain one. Hot or cold drinks anytime!
    Our Saturday in Shibu Onsen started with a hike up into the snowy mountains to visit the indigenous Macaque snow monkeys. But of course, first we must stop for snow monkey coffee at Enza Cafe, just up the road from the famed Shika Kogen brewery.
    Our Saturday in Shibu Onsen started with a hike up into the snowy mountains to visit the indigenous Macaque snow monkeys. But of course, first we must stop for snow monkey coffee at Enza Cafe, just up the road from the famed Shika Kogen brewery.
    Starting the hike up the snowy path leading to the Snow Monkey Onsen.
    Starting the hike up the snowy path leading to the Snow Monkey Onsen.
    Bark of the native evergreens was flaky, colorful, and beautiful.
    Bark of the native evergreens was flaky, colorful, and beautiful.
    The last stretch of trail to the Snow Monkey Onsen.
    The last stretch of trail to the Snow Monkey Onsen.
    Snow Monkey Onsen is a popular tourist attraction, with hoardes of touritst taking photos. Despite this, the monkeys seems at ease, and walk amongst the people freely.
    Snow Monkey Onsen is a popular tourist attraction, with hoardes of touritst taking photos. Despite this, the monkeys seems at ease, and walk amongst the people freely.
    Lots of snow monkeys, lots of tourists, lots of photos.
    Lots of snow monkeys, lots of tourists, lots of photos.
    Macaque Snow Monkeys relaxing in the snow.
    Macaque Snow Monkeys relaxing in the snow.
    Snow monkeys love hanging out in the warm onsen. Only for monkeys though!
    Snow monkeys love hanging out in the warm onsen. Only for monkeys though!
    Snow monkeys love hanging out in the warm onsen. Only for monkeys though!
    Snow monkeys love hanging out in the warm onsen. Only for monkeys though!
    Snow monkeys love hanging out in the warm onsen. Only for monkeys though!
    Snow monkeys love hanging out in the warm onsen. Only for monkeys though!
    Snow monkeys love hanging out in the warm onsen. Only for monkeys though!
    Snow monkeys love hanging out in the warm onsen. Only for monkeys though!
    Snow monkeys love hanging out in the warm onsen. Only for monkeys though!
    Snow monkeys love hanging out in the warm onsen. Only for monkeys though!
    Naturally, monkeys climb trees too.
    Naturally, monkeys climb trees too.
    Saori pointing out the portraits of the monkey tribes current and past leaders. It's like a country club.
    Saori pointing out the portraits of the monkey tribes current and past leaders. It’s like a country club.
    Pre-onsen lunch. Very tasty!
    Pre-onsen lunch. Very tasty!
    After snow monkeys, we went back to our homestay and changed into comfy robes and not so comfy wooden flip flops, grabbed our keys, and went out to hit all 9 Shibu Onsen Onsens. The red pouch I'm holding has my onsen cloth, which has the names of all 9 onesns, and is stamped at each one. Saori is holding her key, attached to a piece of wood with a map of town.
    After snow monkeys, we went back to our homestay and changed into comfy robes and not so comfy wooden flip flops, grabbed our keys, and went out to hit all 9 Shibu Onsen Onsens. The red pouch I’m holding has my onsen cloth, which has the names of all 9 onesns, and is stamped at each one. Saori is holding her key, attached to a piece of wood with a map of town.
    The onsen path is popular, and people show up in all sorts of nice robes. You can also see these women are wearing the traditional wodden onsen flip flops. They're not super comfortable, but it is possible to walk around town in them. The two wood bars on the bottom facilitate a rocking motion when walking.
    The onsen path is popular, and people show up in all sorts of nice robes. You can also see these women are wearing the traditional wodden onsen flip flops. They’re not super comfortable, but it is possible to walk around town in them. The two wood bars on the bottom facilitate a rocking motion when walking.
    Stamping my 1st onsen.
    Stamping my 1st onsen.
    Each onsen requires a key to get into, and the mens and womens doors are on separate sides.
    Each onsen requires a key to get into, and the mens and womens doors are on separate sides.
    Saori and I enjoyed the public onsens separately of course, but got back together for the occasional foot onsen in the center of town.
    Saori and I enjoyed the public onsens separately of course, but got back together for the occasional foot onsen in the center of town.
    Egg Onsen!
    Egg Onsen!
    Shibu onsen as the sun sets, with traditional tatimi rooms everywhere.
    Shibu onsen as the sun sets, with traditional tatimi rooms everywhere.
    After a long day of snow monkeying and onsening, we of course needed a sushi dinner.
    After a long day of snow monkeying and onsening, we of course needed a sushi dinner.
    And some meat skewers and beer for dinner #2
    And some meat skewers and beer for dinner #2
    Strangely, Shibu Onsen also has a couple of cork-gun shooting galleries. People love it!
    Strangely, Shibu Onsen also has a couple of cork-gun shooting galleries. People love it!
    What to do after a long day of snow monkeys, onsens, sushi, meat skewers, and beer? Karaoke.
    What to do after a long day of snow monkeys, onsens, sushi, meat skewers, and beer? Karaoke.
    Vending machines are everywhere, and this one brews fresh coffee on demand.
    Vending machines are everywhere, and this one brews fresh coffee on demand.