During November 2015, I traveled with my family to discover Cuba. We explored Havana, and then got out of the city to travel to the southern coast and around a variety of towns, farm villages, beaches, mountains, and monuments. Here’s how it went…
Itinerary
Our itinerary took us through Havana, Trinidad, Las Terrazas, Remedios, Santa Clara, and Viñales. It was great seeing a wide range of places within Cuba, especially since we had a little more than a week to do it. The full daily log is below.
Getting in to and around Cuba
To get to Cuba, we flew Xtra Airways, a charter airline, from Miami, Florida direct to Havana, Cuba. The flight was great, and very straightforward. For visas, we each got a slightly different visa – my visa listed me as a reporter, since I was taking photos to write this story.
To travel around Cuba, we took a variety of Taxis within Havana, and then hired a private driver and van for the out of town sections. Since we were a group of 5 with limited time, it was very very convenient to have a dedicated, local driver to get us around. Had I done it with a single partner and had more time, it would have been fun to do it backpacker style with public transportation etc. But for our group and time constraints, the way in which we did it was great.
Photo Gear
While in cuba, I shot with four cameras. The Apple iPhone 6S, Sony RX100m3, GoPro Hero4 Silver, and Lytro Illum. All four were interesting cameras to shoot with, and allowed me to be flexible in both capturing the shot I wanted, and in being mobile and unencumbered most of the time. For more on the innovative Lytro Illum Lightfield Camera, click over to my full review. Although all four cameras are great for their own purpose, by far my favorite is the Sony RX100m3. It’s small and lightweight, is relatively easy to use for its size, and takes absolutely amazing photos. I love the flexibility of being able to shoot from waist level, as well as the bounce flash trick, and smooth video.
Photos
Here’s Cuba through my lens….
To fly from Miami to Cuba, the only way to go is on a charter flight. We flew Xtra Airways, which provided a direct flight from Miami to Havana..
The outside of our Casa Particular Bed and Breakfast. We had the entire building, including the top balcony. A great place to stay, right in the middle of Havana.
Our Casa Particular in Havana was great. Rooms were super cute and clean, and the staff was welcoming and friendly. We were the only group staying there, so we had the entire place to ourselves.
A taxi picks up passengers outside of the Hotel Nacional, Havana, Cuba. From Wikipedia: The Hotel Nacional de Cuba is a historic luxury hotel located on the Malec
My father walking around the Hotel Nacional, central Havana. This is right around the area where many of the missiles involved in the Cuban Missile Crisis were stationed. From Wikipedia: The hotel was built on the site of the Santa Clara Battery, which dates back to 1797. Part of the battery has been preserved in the hotel’s gardens, including two large coastal guns dating from the late 19th Century. There is also a small museum there featuring the 1962 Cuban missile crisis. During the crisis, Fidel Castro and Che Guevara set up their headquarters there to prepare the defence of Havana from aerial attack.
Getting drinks at Bar Rosa Nautica, Hotel Nacional, Havana, Cuba.
These Coco Taxis are everywhere in Cuba, and people ride them everywhere. Cute. From Wikipedia: Cocotaxi is an auto rickshaw-type taxi vehicle in Cuba. They have two passenger seats, three wheels, an egg-shaped fiberglass body, and a 75cc two-stroke engine. The word coco means coconut, whose shell shape the vehicles mimic. Though noisy, they cost less than regular taxis.[1]
Exploring Havana. This is the outside of the central Ministerio Del Comercio Exterior, and lies right in the heart of Havana.
Taking an evening walk in downtown Havana past Pabellon Cuba. From LaHabana.com: The Pabell
Internet access in Cuba is severly limited. There is a cell phone network, but it’s mostly voice and sms only. To get internet, cubans buy access cards, and then connect to public wifi hotspots. The hotspots are setup on popular street corners, so at night, it’s common to see groups of Cubans crowded around an internet hotspot area, all immersed in their smartphones and laptops.
Cubans enjoying wifi internet. Although it’s extremely slow, the internet does work, and people are glued to their phones.
There’s a smal, underground club culure in Havana, and we were lucky enough to find Sarao’s Club – one of the city’s music and club culture hotspots. From ALaMesaCuba.com: With an elegant and sensual modern style, Sarao’s bar all in white greets you in the mornings, in an atmosphere that brings the peace needed to carry on with your day. by night, it surprises you with the warm presence of the merriest colors and with music to bring rhythm into your life. This is the ideal place for breakfasts, lunchs and to go for tapas with your friends. a place where everything is possible and you can tell so. Sarao’s Bar, your size…
Classic American cars are extremely popular, and they’re repaired endlessly, right out on the street. This scene of a man fixing his car while his wife looks on was repeated throughout Cuba. Cubans are certainly among the most engenious.
In addition to slow wireless internet, movies and tv shows are also distributed (illegally) via USB drives. Here’s a sign advertising USB drive copying servies..
More classic cars cruise around Havana.
Walking around central Havana. This is a fairly common street scene, with a few cars, and lots of people happily walking around. The buildings are old, but are absolutely beautiful, and maintained as much as they can be.
A Cuban man looks out from his wrought iron door in Havana.
The food in the Old City, Havana was spectacular. We ate at lots of great paladars.
Two schoolgirls walk home through centra Havana, Cuba.
A typical house in one of the more residential sections of Havana.
Despite many well-maintained old buildings, some building, even in central Havana, are simply crumbling away. This one was miraculously still sort of standing..
From Wikipedia: The Christ of Havana (Spanish: Cristo de La Habana) is a large sculpture representing Jesus of Nazareth on a hilltop overlooking the bay in Havana, Cuba. It is the work of the Cuban sculptor Jilma Madera, who won the commission for it in 1953.
Paladars are unofficial restaurants, and this one was in an apartment building. Walking in, it looked like somebody had simply converted their apartment into a kitchy restaurant. The staff was amazing, as was the food.
Exploring Jaimainitas, outside of Havana.
Sushi, outside of Havana.
Mosaics at the house of Jos
The beach outside of Miramar, Cuba is beautiful – people surf, and enjoy the late afternoon sun. From Wikipedia: Many embassies, including the landmark Russian embassy, are located in Miramar – in particular on Quinta Avenida (Fifth Avenue) before called Avenida de las Am
Cars are repaired endlessly, and our taxi driver was very proud of his 1950’s car with a more recent Hundai engine.
Rallying signs are everywhere in Cuba, with slogans and art.
Nighttime in Havana.
At Paladar LaGuardia, we had an amazing dinner, and great drinks on the rooftop. From LaGuardia.com: En el a
On our way to the Fabrica De Artes, we encountered huge waves from the sea splashing over onto the roadway.
Fabrica De Artes, Havana is a great art and performance space. From FAC.CU: Donde estamos
Situado en la Calle 26 esquina a 11, Vedado, este edificio fue la Estaci
Trendy art people hang out at the Fabrica De Artes
On the way to Vinales, we tooka quick stop at Las Terrazas. This small coffee-growing village was situated in the mountains, and was beautiful to explore. Here a farmer shows us a few of his drying coffee beans. From Wikipedia: Las Terrazas is a small community and nature reserve in the municipality of Candelaria, Artemisa Province, Cuba. It is located in the Sierra del Rosario mountains (part of Guaniguanico range), which was designated a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1984. The village has a population of about 1,000 and a number of hotels and restaurants catering for tourists. The nature reserve includes 5000ha of secondary forest[1] which was planted on the surrounding (deforested) hills by building terraces to avoid erosion; hence the name (in Spanish, terrazas means terraces).[2]
The reserve is rich in flora and fauna, and includes lakes, rivers and waterfalls. Organised excursions on the many footpaths and trails can be booked at the local tourist office.[3]
Looking off into the valley outside of Vi
A tobacco farmer in Vinales shows Jill what the tobacco seeds look like.
A tobacco farmer in Vi
A tobacco farm in Vi
I caught a chicken!
Dog and Tobacco Farm, Vi
A local farmer shows us the red beans he grows on his farm.
The beaches near Trinidad, Cuba are absolutely beautiful. We spend a great day relaxing on the beach, and found this makeshift cafe setup by a few fisherman.
Fresh caught fish lunch. The fish was cooked on a stove made out of tire rims and wire mesh.
A local woman looks out from her home in Trinidad, Cuba. From Wikipedia: Trinidad was founded on December 23, 1514[1] by Diego Vel
Our homestay in Remedios, Cuba.
This is the provisions book that Cubans use to track what they get from the government.
This is the provisions book that Cubans use to track what they get from the government.
This is the provisions book that Cubans use to track what they get from the government.
A local grain dispensary in Remedios, Cuba.
Inside a church in Remedios, Cuba
Earnest Hemmingway’s house – Finca Vig
Walking around Remedios. From Wikipedia: Remedios (Spanish pronunciation: [re?me
Cuba Diary
We did LOTS in Cuba. Here’s a quick daily log of our activities – far from complete, but a good overview:
Day 1 – 2016-11-24
woke up at 3am to get to airport early for xtra airways flight Miami > Havana
taxi, easy, cuc30 airport to airbnb- airbnb checkin and late breakfast – omelettes and fresh guava juice and strong coffee
walked around looking for bank and internet cards
met up with dads friends from ingrnius
went to grand hotel havana for views, cambio.
lunch at paladar – shredded pork
passed ice cream park
nap at airbnb
got evening snack at next door bakery
jason and jill arrived
family dinner at paladar cafe laurent
early sleep
Day 2
breakfast at bnb
explore hotel nacional
sent postcards to mihi and wukate
walked across the center of town through callejon de hamel
walked through chinatown
walked into floridita restaurant
walked through obispo walking street
got lunch at ivan chef justo
walked around old havana some more, discovered central csthedral square
hired driver in old red car and went up hill to castle
saw worlds longest cigar
checked out nuclear missiles
cruised down to to jazz club
got confused by multiple buena vista social clubs
taxi’d back to airbnb
walked to sarao’s nightclub, then to dinner at 11th floor block building paladar
walked back to sarao and saw mana-like band
sleep
Day 3
woke up late had breakfast
chatted with travel agent ti work out plans
got taxi to jaimanitas
bought gifts at art area
had lunch next to canal – sushi with cuban rice
taxi to the beach along miramar near copacabana
taxi to beach hotel
taxi to revolution plaza
walked to rosenberg memorial and performing arts center
found santeria worship dance and danced with them
walked to ice cream park
checked email at cuba libre hotel
had an amazing dinner at paladar la quardia
taxi to fabrica de artes
sleep
Day 4
woke up early to have breakfast at airbnb
met eric our driver
stopped at airport
hit the road for Vinñales
stopped for lunch at Las terrazas
walked around las terrazas, found flamingos, found coffee plantation
had wifi session at las terrazas cafe
got back on road for viñales
arrived in vibales at family home
stopped at overlook hotel in vinales
went in cave hike and boat ride
stopped at tobacco farm and discovered cinnamon tree, fighting cocks, etc
went to homestay – jason and i stayed on roof
had dinner at family house – great chx and lobster
walked around town and saw live music at cafe
went to bed early
sketch showerhead
Day 5
woke up early for home cooked breakfast
took morning stroll with jason
drove to house owners farm
saw farm with corn tobacco chickens pigs goats water pump
hit road for cien fuegos
stopped in At a few gas stations for gas and food
arrived in cien fuegos and walked around for an hour
saw pier, art galleries, town square, grocery store
drove to palace at punta gorda
got on road for trinidad
arrived at dennis homestay in trinidad
walked around town and found restaurant el medico
Day 6
woke up for home cooked breakfast in back porch
cruised out to exclusive beach resort for relaxing afternoon on beach
walked to end of beach for fresh fisherman lunch
drove to la boca beach at end of river to explore
returned to Trinidad
walked around town with dennis and learned about history if trinidad
grabbed dinner at la botija and listened to snazzy jazz band
Day 7
got in van and started drive to santa clara
stopped at che monument
drove to santa clara
went to beach on cay las brujas
drove to remedios and walked around town – first place with internet and also a pretty hotel
had a nice dinner at the casa particular
“the help”
slept late, woke up at 8 and walked to coffee mans house
Shots from the Lytro Illum
Throughout the trip, I shot a series of lightfield photos with the Lytro Illum Camera. I was testing and reviewing it on behalf of Lytro, and had a great time learning about lightfield photography. If you’re interested in more about the Lytro, check out the full review: Shooting Lightfield Photos in Cuba with the Lytro Illum.
Angkor Wat, Cambodia – finally my opportunity to visit the world’s largest religious monument – and I was completely tired out and bored with visiting religious monuments. Initially the whole situation was a bit depressing – but it turned out better than I could have expected, and I had an incredible time exploring this epically large complex.
Angkor Wat was a place I definitely wanted to visit – however, I was burnt out on visiting monuments, and learning about random bits of history. I did, however, want to have a day of shooting photos there. So instead of hiring a tour guide, I paired up with local photojournalist George Nickels. George and I met up in Siem Reap early in the morning, and took a TukTuk over to the site in time to watch the sunrise. George had been to Angkor Wat countless times, and knew a few great places to take photos. I especially appreciated exploring the area with another fellow photographer – we both understood the time eachother needed to climb around and set up shots, and had incredibly productive conversation about photography while walking between sites. During my day shooting with George, I was using both my Sony RX100 and a borrowed Canon 60D. Unfortunately, the photos I took on the Canon were lost in transit, but I did recover a few shot on the RX100.
Angkor Wat (Khmer: ?????????) is a Hindu, then subsequently Buddhist temple complex and the largest religious monument in the world. The temple was built by the Khmer King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century in Yasodharapura (Khmer: ?????????, present-day Angkor), the capital of the Khmer Empire, as his state temple and eventual mausoleum. Breaking from the Shaivism tradition of previous kings, Angkor Wat was instead dedicated to Vishnu. As the best-preserved temple at the site, it is the only one to have remained a significant religious centre since its foundation – first Hindu, then Buddhist. The temple is at the top of the high classical style of Khmer architecture. It has become a symbol of Cambodia,[1] appearing on its national flag, and it is the country’s prime attraction for visitors.
Angkor Wat combines two basic plans of Khmer temple architecture: the temple mountain and the later galleried temple, based on early Dravidian Architecture, with key features such as the Jagati. It is designed to represent Mount Meru, home of the devas in Hindu mythology: within a moat and an outer wall 3.6 kilometres (2.2 mi) long are three rectangular galleries, each raised above the next. At the centre of the temple stands a quincunx of towers. Unlike most Angkorian temples, Angkor Wat is oriented to the west; scholars are divided as to the significance of this. The temple is admired for the grandeur and harmony of the architecture, its extensive bas-reliefs, and for the numerous devatas adorning its walls.
The modern name, Angkor Wat, means “Temple City” or “City of Temples” in Khmer; Angkor, meaning “city” or “capital city”, is a vernacular form of the word nokor (???), which comes from the Sanskrit word nagara (???).[2] Wat is the Khmer word for “temple grounds”, derived from the Pali word “vatta” (????).[3] Prior to this time the temple was known as Preah Pisnulok (Vara Vishnuloka in Sanskrit), after the posthumous title of its founder.[4]
Entering the site early in the morning
There were lots of tourists, but they were mostly tame so early in the morning.
Jockying for position for the
And my version of the pic.
Cruising into the rest of the monument with our TukTuk Driver.
Preserved carvings, surrounded by dense jungle.
Out of the many many temples in the area, most of them are open for exploration. There
George and I talked with a few of the monks and nuns in various temples, and collected a few good luck bracelets.
Brief periods of rain led to beautiful interiors, and colorfully wet exteriors.
Finally, our exit from the area, passing bikers, hikers, taxis, and tuk tuks.
